Western Australia 2022

Western Australia ~ 2022
Full Itinerary

Day 1 - Monday, May 9
Alarm set for 5 am check out of Holiday Inn Express and collect breakfast package.
Walk to domestic terminal there in plenty of time thankfully, as it was slow going to do the Checkin and security.

Virgin flight was good in Perth 20 minutes before scheduled landing time.
Collected Hertz Rent-A-Car
Hyundai I 30 hybrid nice car to drive have our own GPS which is working okay.
Travelled into Perth to do hop on hop off bus but unfortunately doesn’t run on a Monday at present.

Had lunch at Riverside Cafe which was a late breakfast.
Had a walk around Barrick Square then walked up to the CBD and did shopping at Woolworths.
Torch and sunscreen purchased.

Travel to our Airbnb in Victoria Park on the Canning Highway.
Very nice apartment well set out, with everything you would need provided for.

After settling in Ken had a Nanna nap and Paula went for a walk along the Swan River.
Organised ourselves to go to dinner with Jane and Mark Brockhoff just near the Perth Zoo.

Back at the apartment by 9:15pm already for bed. Has basically been a 27 hour day.
Organise to go to Rottnest Island, bicycle ride have a look around Fremantle and go to the Fremantle prison.

Day 2 - Tuesday May 10
Had a later start to today didn’t need to be early to Fremantle for the ferry crossing to Rottnest island until 11 am.
We arrived in Fremantle just after nine purchased our Rottnest ferry tickets and walked around Fremantle.
It is a heritage area with some wonderful old building. We walked to the old courthouse via Cappuccino Street then across to a park which had a ferris wheel then to the roundhouse wish was an old prison.
We then went back to the ferry terminal had a coffee and got some water for the Rottnest island bike ride.

The ferry crossing took approximately 30 minutes and wasn’t too rough although Paula got a little motion sickness. We arrived at Rottnest Island just after 11:30am.
Took us a little while to find petrol and Flipper the bike hire place once organise we asked for the best way to travel to see the things we wanted to see.

The bikes weren't really the best but after a couple of adjustments to get the seats right they were better, in the end Paula liked her's.

We rode around Thompson Bay, then Kingston Barracks, which was an old army barracks built for the Second World War to protect Fremantle port. They had four different gun placements on the island which are all joined by tunnels and the railway. The site is now used as tourist accommodation.
From here we rode to Bickley Point, which looks back over the settlement, around to Henrietta Rocks, where the wreck of the ship, 'The Shark', can be seen.
Next was Porpoise Bay which was a beautiful beach then a loop around to Little Salmon Bay and Salmon Bay both of which had boats lying in the sheltered waters of the bay. From their we travelled towards Wadjemup Lighthouse. The lighthouse is on the highest point of the island so a little climbing was needed. Some riders left their bikes half way up but Paula rode all the way to the top. It was just near the lighthouse we saw our first Quokka - you can see why the Dutch called the island 'Rottnest' - they do resemble an overgrown Rat! By the time we were getting back on the ferry we saw a whole help more, especially around the eating areas of the settlement.
From here we needed to head back to the bike hire place as we were running out of time. We came back down the centre of the island past the 'pink lakes', the water is definitely pink - something to do with the minerals in the rocks the lakes have formed over, very salty smell as well.
Bikes returned after getting slightly disorientated and riding around the settlement, lots of cabins and resort areas for tourists, starting to become a busy place.
The ferry ride return was quick and after disembarking we headed back into Fremantle for a look at the old Town Hall and Fremantle Prison.
We arrived just before a guided tour was to start, so we joined, which was an excellent decision as the tour was an eye opener. The prison was originally built by convicts for themselves in 1850 and was used up until 1991 - it is now a heritage site. They have recreated the various cell types right from when the convicts where until the last prison was moved.
It was an unusual prison in that the prisoners had a lot more freedom, with jobs making things and vegetables grown to sell.
The prison is built on limestone, which was quarried to build the prison, also had tunnels built under the it. This was used as an aquifer to hold the town water supply.
The prison was also the site of 43 hangings, the last in 1964. One prisoner hanged was female.

After our prison visit we walked back to the car then travelled up the coastline to have dinner will Mel and Arlo at Whitford City Westfield, in the suburb of Hillary. It was great to catch up and hear all their news.
Back to the Air BnB for a needed sleep.

Day 3 - Wednesday May 11

Wave Rock visit - we were up by 5.30am to get started on our full day trip to Wave Rock. It is near Hyden, 395 kms south east of Perth.
We left by 6.20am, drove through the city into the Perth ranges. We cleared the hills only to run into the first fog of the year, and it was thick in places. It lasted until we reached Corrigin, where we had breakfast.
The last leg was 108kms of good open roads, grain country, lots of birds, grass parrots with a black head, picking seed grains off the road and full silos. This area is known as the WA wheatbelt.
We basically had Wave Rock to ourselves, tourism hasn’t yet returned out here after the COVID lock downs. The wave is spectacular - awesome colours, amazing to think how it is formed. We walked along and 'surfed' the Wave before climbing up the top and walking the ridge that has the rabbit proof fence built along it.
Climbing back down we walked a narrow path to the Hippo Yawn, a rock carved by the wind to look like a hippo yawning. After a quick cooling drink we headed for the Humps, a rock outcrop that has Aboriginal cave drawing in the Mulka's caves.
On the return journey Paula had her first drive of a hybrid car and also her first drive in WA. We stopped at the Dog Cemetery, which was very interesting.
Once back at the Air BnB we walked up to the Victoria Park shopping area and had dinner at the Broken Hill Hotel, both very good meals.
Back to have showers, pack and ready to leave early for the Hop on Hop Off bus tour around Perth.



Day 4 - Thursday May 12
Visit Hayden - we had initially planned to do the Hop on Hop off bus this morning but a late check found it was cancelled for Thursday, and when we woke up it was pouring with rain so maybe fortunate we didn't go. Instead we made alternate arrangements to meet Hayden at 10am for brunch.
Hayden picked a place not far from the airport but also reasonable close for him. Brunch at the Dome, then 10 pin bowling - Paula won the first game and Hayden the second. It was great to catch up and share a few memories with him of his 'growing up'.
Around 1.00pm Hayden offered to lead us to the airport and got petrol on the way. We were fortunate he did because it wasn't obvious where Terminal 4 (Qantas domestic) car return was!
Once found, booking in and security where quick and it was just a matter of finding gate 17 and waiting.
The flight to Broome seemed quick, we waited longer for a taxi! In the end we walked to our accommodation - which was only about 600 metres from the airport!
YHA accommodation - only thing available when we booked the Kimberley Wild expedition.
Communal showers/toilets might be a worry for Paula, but it is what we have on the majority of the tour, so might be best to 'break the ice early!

Day 5 - Friday May 13
It was a later planned leaving time 7.55am so time for a continental breakfast at the YHA, 'The Lodge'. Two other couples where also staying here. We were collected on time! Our guide/driver for the next 2 days is Clancy, very friendly.
After collecting the last couple and being given a rundown on the bus and where everything was (every one is expected to help with different tasks over the 13 days) we started the expedition.
We travelled out on Leveque Hwy (which was tarred in 2020 for the mines, but has been eroded in some parts by the wet season - so roadworks at different stages) towards the Dampier Peninsula. This area is an extraordinary blend of pristine beaches and dramatic coastlines, rich in traditional Aboriginal culture. Travelling north, our first stop is the garden community of Lombadina, home to an old bush church, a local craft shop and a delightful community bakery – our local guide was Darryl who showed us around the community and explained the different local Aboriginal groups. There are 5 in the Dampier Peninsula area. We enjoy their fresh wood-fired bread for our picnic lunch on the ocean seafront near One Arm Point at Jologo Beach. The Indian Ocean is an amazing blue!
We then journeyed a little further north to the One Arm Point Aboriginal Community to tour a local aqua-culture hatchery perched right on the tip of One Arm Point overlooking the impressive Buccaneer Archipelago. Our guide, Jessica, was very entertaining and knew her local sea creature.
We also enjoy the company and cultural insight of local elder, as she shared stories of growing up in the remote Bardi Jawi community and her family connections to the area.
Our final stop was across the peninsula at remote Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm. In 1946 Dean Brown skippered a rickety wooden lugger into an unknown frontier to discover this hidden paradise: his descendants continue to operate what is now the oldest Pearl Farm in Australia.
We are camping here in great accommodation - new tent style bungalows, with your own shower and toilet. Dinner was barramundi and chips, washed down with a few beers. In bed by 9.00pm.

Day 6 - Saturday May 14

Today was spent mostly at Cygnet Bay, with our morning starting with the news we had lost one couple (Keith and Pauline through COVID) and also that a 2.5 metre crocodile had been spotted on the mud flats near the pearl farm.
On our visit to the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm this morning we gained an insight into this remote pearling industry on the Farm Tour including how the industry started after plastics destroyed the mother of pearl industry. We were shown how a pearl is made and how it is removed for the shell. Our morning concluded with an in-depth pearl grading and appreciation session. Every part of the oyster is used.
After lunch we embarked on an extraordinary Sea Safari through the Islands of the Giant Tides to experience the remarkable tidal flows of King Sound.
This was a truly unique experience as the tidal moment over 6 hours can be more than 10 metres in height and the amount of water moved being the equivalent of 160 Sydney harbours. The water surge was spectacular.
The land formations were also unique as the old rocks collided with the younger rocks forming distinct folded landforms.
On the return journey to Broome most people had a quite nap before arriving at our accommodation at approximately 5.30pm.


Day 7 - Sunday May 15

As we travel through the remote and beautiful Kimberley landscape, Clancy shared stories of local history, people and the environment. Enjoy a morning tea break by the Fitzroy River and visit the Derby ‘Boab Prison Tree' before we hit the Gibb River Road. Visit the fascinating Norval Gallery for an insight into the culture of the Worrorra, Ngarinyin and Wunumbal tribes and their supreme spirit being, the Wandjina. The afternoon is devoted to exploring Tunnel Creek. In this 750-metre cave system carved through the Napier Range, we discover stalactites, secret caves and a large variety of wildlife. It is here we also learn the legend of Jandamarra, an Aboriginal freedom fighter who used the tunnel as a hide-out in the late 1800's. Don't miss a refreshing swim in an idyllic water-hole. That night we settle into our first night under the Kimberley night sky. Swags under the stars!

Day 8 - Monday May 16

The Napier Range is over 350 million years old and home to the geological wonder of Windjana Gorge. Beneath gorge walls rising 90m, we spend the morning searching for freshwater crocodiles, local birdlife and indigenous bush tucker. In the afternoon we head off for Bell Gorge, a hidden highlight of the West Kimberley. This idyllic retreat, considered amongst the most beautiful in the area, boasts cascading waterfalls and crystal clear pools formed over millions of years – an easy place to while away a few hours! On the way to our accommodation at Mt Barnett camping grounds we discover the cool waters of water lilie-laden at Galvans Gorge.

Day 9 - Tuesday May 17

Today a few intrepid explorers (Paula included), did the long arduous walk to see the rugged beauty of Manning Falls, with a swim in deep clear waters of the falls. The remainder stayed at camp, cleaning up, doing washing, relaxing and exploring the meandering Pentecost River, looking for local wildlife and taking a dip in the refreshing water until the others returned.
We all spent the afternoon relaxing by the Pentecost River, before a campfire night with drinks and a hearty meal. We packed for an early start to drive to El Questro Wilderness camp site.

Day 10 - Wednesday May 18

Our journey up the dirt Gibb River Road, one of only 2 roads that cross the Kimberley (the other is the tarred Great Northern Highway), continued to the iconic El Questro Wilderness Park.
We passed a charity push bike ride, with hundreds of riders, riding 660kms in 5 days over, dirt, sandy, corrugated roads, tough!
On our way to El Questro Wilderness camp we walked into Emma Gorge, which was a very challenging walk and enjoyed a cool swim under the waterfall.
El Questro Wilderness camp was packed with the bike riders, very noisy presentation and party night that first night.

Day 11 - Thursday May 19

In the morning, after a leisurely sleep in if you wanted it, but no one slept in, we had a refreshing dip in the Zebedee Springs, they close to the public at 12 noon, to cater for those who pay $4000 a day for selected accommodation at the El Questro homestead! In the afternoon we all joined a cruise on Chamberlain Gorge as our leisure activity. It was ok but would have appreciated more Indigenous cultural information.
For dinner we ate at the El Questro pub, which was still busy with the bike riders.

Day 12 - Friday May 20

Early start, 6.30am to drive to Kununurra then onto Lake Argyle.
We emerge from the Gibb River Road for a few hours in Kununurra. We visit a sandalwood store, the Hoochery, a rum distillery and the Zebra stone store. They use Zebra stone, a rock only found in this area of the Kimberley's to design jewellery and table ornaments. After this we spent a bit of time in the township while Clancy and Hannah restocked the truck.
In the afternoon, travel on to the shores of the expansive Lake Argyle, the heart of the Ord River Irrigation System which has transformed this dry region into a lush agricultural oasis.
The Lake Argyle resort is very extensive, with a beautiful ‘Infinity Pool', which overlooked the lake.
No campfire but a chance to sit around and enjoy the stars.

Day 13 - Saturday May 21

In the morning Paula went for a walk to Bluff Lookout then we all explored the Ord River dam wall and then visited the historic Durack Homestead Museum. The homestead was originally in the valley until the valley was flooded after the dam was built. It was moved to higher ground and preserved as a museum to illustrate the early history of European settlement in the Kimberleys. Unfortunately no history of the Indigenous people who lived in the valley has been kept or recorded!
After lunch we were organised to do a sunset boat cruise on the lake. We had a chance to have a swim, see a freshwater crocodile and take spectacular photos of the sunset over the water.
Dinner was an organised dinner at the Lake Argyle resort outdoor restaurant. We had a great performer, Steve Case, perform for us. A few sat around talking while the others packed for the long drive the next day to the Purnululu (Bungle Bungle) Range.


Day 14 - Sunday May 22

After a leisurely morning, we headed south down the Great Northern Highway to Purnululu National Park, home of the magnificent Bungle Bungle Range. We are staying in our private Bungle Bungle Safari Camp in the heart of the park. This is an extraordinary National Park, the most famous formation are the Bungle Bungle domes. Rivers created this landscape of unique orange and black striped ‘beehive' geological formations over a period of 20 million years. Unbelievably, only the locals knew it existed until the early 1980's; once discovered by others, the area was made a national park in 1987.
The camp is exceptional, the best accommodation by far. A great atmosphere. The group we are travelling with are very good company, everyone helps and we don't really have anyone who is always late or constantly complaining.

Day 15 - Monday May 23

We explore Echidna Chasm (2km), known for its towering Livistonia Palm trees, and take a short walk (2-3km) into stunning Cathedral Gorge, where towering rocks create a natural amphitheatre. There is time in the afternoon to take an optional scenic helicopter flight and enjoyed a birds-eye view of the beehive domes to put it all into perspective. This is the highlight of the tour for Ken. Paula and Ken shared the ride with Thomas. The helicopter had NO doors or windows, just the helicopter frame and the motor! Strapped in with just car seat belts, you can lean out as far as you like to get the best photos. The Bungle Bungle Range is truly expansive and you don't get the full magnitude of the area unless you fly over it.

Day 16 - Tuesday May 24

Enroute to Fitzroy Crossing, we break the long journey with a visit to the gold rush town of Halls Creek to see the remarkable China Wall. We also enjoy lunch at Marys Pool and visit the remote Laarri Aboriginal Art Gallery, before an evening by the Fitzroy River at Fitzroy Crossing. Tonight we are sleeping in very small tents which you erect yourself. The bunker bags are kept in the truck. Just after we have erected our tents we find out Terry and Rosemary have contracted COVID! They will have to spend the next 7 days in isolation at Fitzroy Crossing, thankfully they are given a room and don't have to stay in the tent!
It is the most difficult night that we have spent camping.


Day 17 - Wednesday May 25

A morning cruise through the majestic Geikie Gorge is a great start to our last day. Nature carved this wonder through the Geikie and Oscar Ranges during the Devonian geological period. Learn of the fascinating geology of this natural wonder and discover the huge array of wildlife including freshwater crocodiles, birds and fish. Explore Old Fitzroy Crossing and enjoy lunch by the river before we return to Broome, in time to enjoy the sunset over Cable Beach.

Day 18 - Thursday May 26

We are out of the Youth Hostel accommodation as early as we can which means spending a few extra hours at the airport. Our flight is Broome - Perth - Sydney (tail breeze from Perth to Sydney) arrived 1/2 hour early. Overnight stay at Holiday Inn Express.

Day 19 - Friday May 27

Up around 7am, breakfast, RATS test for us both - negative. Trains back to Scott's.


Review for TripAdvisor

The Kimberley area has been on our list of places to visit for a long while, our expectations were met and extensively exceeded, essentially through the organisation of the Kimberley Wild team. We visited places and had information imparted that you would not see or hear if travelling through by yourself.
Our guide Clancy and his assistant Hannah, on her first Kimberley Wild assignment, were outstanding ambassadors for the company. Nothing was too difficult for them to organise and do and both greeted you with a cheery good morning everyday.
Clancy’s love and knowledge of the Kimberley's was infectious and his ability to coordinate a group of people who did not know each other at the start of the trip, to work, help and encourage each other over the 13 days was very rewarding. We have a whole new group of friends from this experience.
As a participant on this trip you need to be aware that the expedition will take you out of your comfort zone, but it makes the experience even more rewarding!
You must do the 'windowless' helicopter flyover of the Bungle Bungle Range in the Purnululu National Park.
The only thing really missing was the need for a little more cultural immersion, especially around the Dreamtime understanding of how many of the landforms formed and what they mean to the different Aboriginal groups who live here.
It was wonderful experience further enhanced by Clancy and Hannah and the exceptional people we travelled with. Thank you 😊
Put a Kimberley Wild Expedition on your bucket list - awesome experience. 👍

Ken & Paula D.