5 - 11 March 2018
Tasmanian Motorcycle Tour
Day 5 ~ Friday - March 9
Queenstown - Stanley ~ 238kms
Queenstown - Stanley ~ 238kms
We all gathered in the Silver Hill’s Motel carpark at 7.30am to wander into Queenstown to find breakfast. It was a still morning with mist hanging over the valley which Cliff & Ken knew would ‘burn-off’ during the day. On our way into the main part of town we crossed the Queen River which caught our attention as the water was orange! The orange colour of the water is caused by the mineral traces picked up by the water running through the old mine workings further up stream, apparently it is a great sight to see when the orange of the Queen River meets the dark blue of the King River at John Butters Power Station further down the valley.
The mist gave the old part of Queenstown a ‘ghostly’ feel as we continued into town. We spotted a potential breakfast venue at the West Coast Wilderness Railway tourist location. It was the old Queenstown Railway Station turned into a museum and the starting point for a 1/2 day journey on the train to Dubbil Barril, past all the old mine workings and up into the high country of the Teepookana Forest Reserve. This would make for a great excursion on a return visit.
At the time we arrived the area was packed with people as the morning trip was nearly ready to leave. We had a quick look at the train carriages, with the old wooden bench seats and warm blankets in the racks above for when the weather is cooler, they won’t be needed today.
At the time we arrived the area was packed with people as the morning trip was nearly ready to leave. We had a quick look at the train carriages, with the old wooden bench seats and warm blankets in the racks above for when the weather is cooler, they won’t be needed today.
Queenstown in the morning fog
We kept moving into town, figuring if nothing else suited this would be good once the train had loaded its passengers. On our walk through the town it was obvious it was starting to awaken with a number of accommodation establishments disgorging other motorbike groups.
Queenstown is obviously a popular attraction for motorbikes. We also started to hear the sounds of ‘bikes’ waking up as well with a number identified as vintage Indian motorbikes, as it turned out the same ones Cliff & Ken had seen being loaded onto the Spirit of Tasmania in Port Melbourne.
Our walk uncovered nothing to match the menu at the station so we headed back ordered a combination of meals, mostly warm, all enjoyed with coffee and tea to suit. We then made our may back to the motel, packed, returned the keys and began today’s leg to Stanley. The morning mist had lifted and we were welcomed to another beautiful day to be riding motorbikes.
Our climb out of Queenstown wasn’t quite as spectacular as the 99 bends on entering but were just as interesting with a different type of scenery presenting itself. We took a slight deviation into another mining town, Zeehan which has suffered far more dramatically from the closure of the mines in the area. Almost all building were either unoccupied or for sale, very depressing after the signs of progress in Queenstown.
Queenstown is obviously a popular attraction for motorbikes. We also started to hear the sounds of ‘bikes’ waking up as well with a number identified as vintage Indian motorbikes, as it turned out the same ones Cliff & Ken had seen being loaded onto the Spirit of Tasmania in Port Melbourne.
Our walk uncovered nothing to match the menu at the station so we headed back ordered a combination of meals, mostly warm, all enjoyed with coffee and tea to suit. We then made our may back to the motel, packed, returned the keys and began today’s leg to Stanley. The morning mist had lifted and we were welcomed to another beautiful day to be riding motorbikes.
Our climb out of Queenstown wasn’t quite as spectacular as the 99 bends on entering but were just as interesting with a different type of scenery presenting itself. We took a slight deviation into another mining town, Zeehan which has suffered far more dramatically from the closure of the mines in the area. Almost all building were either unoccupied or for sale, very depressing after the signs of progress in Queenstown.
After Zeehan we continued on to Rosebery, our morning tea stop. The roads continued to be just as good as the ones we had ridden yesterday; sweeping bends, tight hairpins, open stretches, climbs and downhill tracts, all with great road surfaces and awesome views. Rosebery Bakehouse was our stop with coffee, tea and treats consumed on comfortable lounges looking at the passing traffic, lots of which were motorcycles!
Once back on the bikes it was off to explore Hellyer Gorge. To get there we had to travel through the area near Cradle Mountain and Lake St Clair, an area considered by many as one of the best places to bush walk and experience the real wilderness of Tasmania. Again the roads continued to offer spectacular riding conditions and beautiful views, but what we were to experience on the 70 kilometres of the Murchison Highway, the stretch that runs through Hellyer Gorge, was something else again.
Once back on the bikes it was off to explore Hellyer Gorge. To get there we had to travel through the area near Cradle Mountain and Lake St Clair, an area considered by many as one of the best places to bush walk and experience the real wilderness of Tasmania. Again the roads continued to offer spectacular riding conditions and beautiful views, but what we were to experience on the 70 kilometres of the Murchison Highway, the stretch that runs through Hellyer Gorge, was something else again.
It began with about 25 kilometres of open sweepers, stay in top gear, about 110kph and just fling through the 80-85kph bends with a few straight sections to level the head. You then hit 8 kilometres of some of the tightest downhill switchbacks you can encounter, stay in the low gears, hit the corners and power out, not too fast as the next corner, going the other way is on you. Let the pillions look at the scenery, concentrate!
At the bottom of the gorge stop in the carpark and toilet block area get off the bike and just smile - you don’t need to, or feel like you have to say anything!
At the bottom of the gorge stop in the carpark and toilet block area get off the bike and just smile - you don’t need to, or feel like you have to say anything!
Geoff, Cliff, Kim, Guy & Ken went for a walk to explore the gorge. Beck stayed with the bikes and had a rest, her motion sickness had returned. After stretching the legs whilst exploring the gorge, unfortunately we didn’t find the waterfall, we headed back to the bikes and got ready to enjoy the next 35 kilometres of similar riding, 8-10 kilometres of tight bends climbing out of the gorge to 25 kilometres of sweeping bends to take us towards the coast.
Truly inspirational - a road so tight in some of the continuous corners that it is not allowed to be used by coaches or trucks and even the ‘grey nomads’, the retirees travelling Australia in caravans and camper vans, are very cautious when using the road.
After leaving the Murchison Highway we travelled through countryside that became more and more dairy lands, even down to the smell. We were approaching the coastline and it was soon to appear on our right as we headed towards Stanley, our next overnight rest stop. The coastline was just as spectacular as the high country, beautiful headlands, coves, sandy beaches and the magnificent blue of the waters of Bass Strait.
It was after 2.30pm when we detoured into Wynyard for lunch and a rest break. Beck was feeling even worse by this stage, all she wanted was to hop off the bike and sleep! We found a comfortable cafe called Sweet Ness and she discovered a bench to sit on and rest. A can of coke was about all she wanted - more just a chance to ‘stop the motion’. The rest of us settled for hamburgers or sandwiches and cold drinks. The closer we were to the coast the warmer it had become, it was almost 30 degrees Celsius in Wynyard.
After eating we wandered down the main street of Wynyard giving Beck a little more time to recover. Wynyard was a pretty beachside resort that would obviously be a hive of activity during the summer months. Geoff & Cliff had decided that Beck might find it easier if she did the last stretch into Stanley, about 2 hours away, on the back of Cliff’s bike. This was organised and we headed off.
The road through to Stanley was much busier than what we had experienced on any of the other roads we had travelled except those around Launceston and Hobart so it was ease off the throttle and watch for a possible ‘police presence’. Ken leading and using the cruise control on his FJR kept us to a reasonable speed within the limits. The road surface itself also wasn’t as good as in the high country, obviously used by more trucks.
This section still presented us with some great views especially the closer we got to Stanley and the more the road hugged the coast line. The sea’s presence was noted by the increase in the frequency of the wind gusts and the saltwater smell.
We turned off the Bass Highway, the main road linking all the towns in this area and noted a petrol station for refuelling tomorrow morning on our way out. In Stanley, itself a quite attractive little settlement, we found our accommodation, Hanlon House. It was definitely something different to the other accommodation we had experienced and would be a delight to sleep in considering we had the ‘RECLINERS’ to look forward to the next night!
After eating we wandered down the main street of Wynyard giving Beck a little more time to recover. Wynyard was a pretty beachside resort that would obviously be a hive of activity during the summer months. Geoff & Cliff had decided that Beck might find it easier if she did the last stretch into Stanley, about 2 hours away, on the back of Cliff’s bike. This was organised and we headed off.
The road through to Stanley was much busier than what we had experienced on any of the other roads we had travelled except those around Launceston and Hobart so it was ease off the throttle and watch for a possible ‘police presence’. Ken leading and using the cruise control on his FJR kept us to a reasonable speed within the limits. The road surface itself also wasn’t as good as in the high country, obviously used by more trucks.
This section still presented us with some great views especially the closer we got to Stanley and the more the road hugged the coast line. The sea’s presence was noted by the increase in the frequency of the wind gusts and the saltwater smell.
We turned off the Bass Highway, the main road linking all the towns in this area and noted a petrol station for refuelling tomorrow morning on our way out. In Stanley, itself a quite attractive little settlement, we found our accommodation, Hanlon House. It was definitely something different to the other accommodation we had experienced and would be a delight to sleep in considering we had the ‘RECLINERS’ to look forward to the next night!
Stanley is renowned for its ‘Nut’ - a spectacular landform that overlooks the town and we were very fortunate in that Hanlon House is right underneath its highest point and just near the chairlift that takes you to the top. We unloaded the bikes, selected our rooms (Cliff & Ken - Alice Rose, Kim & Guy - Lilly Emma and Geoff & Beck - upstairs in Amy Belle), parked the bikes out the back, then organised to have dinner at the Stanley Hotel - fortunately our host, Michael, was able to book a table for 6 at 7.15pm. This was very helpful as the establishment was well and truly full when we arrived.
Before heading for dinner, Cliff, Kim, Geoff & Guy went for a walk down to Godfrey’s Beach and along the waterfront whilst Beck had a rest and Ken explored the house and caught up on e-mails and other correspondence.
Before heading for dinner, Cliff, Kim, Geoff & Guy went for a walk down to Godfrey’s Beach and along the waterfront whilst Beck had a rest and Ken explored the house and caught up on e-mails and other correspondence.
'The Nut' in Stanley
The four bikes - having a rest.
Also before Guy went for the walk he had motored into town and picked up half a dozen stubbies for a drink on the balcony overlooking the beach when they returned from the walk. The house, the view, the ambience, the beer, the riding all seemed to come together as a euphoria as we contemplated that the last day of the ride was tomorrow. It had all come to a finish so quickly!
Our dinner, after a leisurely walk into the hotel, was delicious, we were all very hungry. We then had the opportunity, back at the house, to go outside and have a mob of wallabies appear in the church yard next door. Geoff, Beck & Kim were delighted. We could also hear the sounds of penguins near the house but couldn’t find them. We were to discover in the morning that they are actually nesting under the house! We were disappointed we hadn’t explored a little further.
Our dinner, after a leisurely walk into the hotel, was delicious, we were all very hungry. We then had the opportunity, back at the house, to go outside and have a mob of wallabies appear in the church yard next door. Geoff, Beck & Kim were delighted. We could also hear the sounds of penguins near the house but couldn’t find them. We were to discover in the morning that they are actually nesting under the house! We were disappointed we hadn’t explored a little further.
Stanley would be a very interesting place to revisit, have a look at what you can do: https://www.youtube.com/embed/G1NqiT4SGIg?rel=0&showinfo=0