China Trip 2018
Part 2
Day 10
Wednesday July 4
Having an early breakfast gives you a chance to make the most of the day. Showered, breakfast finished, room keys returned and ready to disembark all by 7.20am. We left the 'Goddess 2' for the last time and walked down the pier to another boat to take us through the vertical ship lift along side the Three Gorges Dam. It had rained fairly heavily through the night and a fog had settled over the river. We would not have the best view of the actual dam but would quickly appreciate the enormity of 'The Project'.
The vertical ship lift is an engineering marvel, similar disbelief to the workings of the Falkirk Wheel. The vertical ship lift works on a screw principle but it is the sheer size of the lift and the weight it carries over 100 metres straight up or down (depending which way the boat is travelling) that is amazing.
The whole process takes 30 minutes where as the five lock system, next door, which caters for larger vessels, takes over 2 1/2 hours.
Once through the lift and now downstream of the dam we docked and moved onto a bus to take us on a tour of the rest of the project. We had to go through very strict security before we could enter but once sorted we were able to leave our belongings on the bus for the duration of the visit.
We saw a great model of the whole dam complex which made it easier to appreciate the whole set up. We then ventured to the highest point of the complex, Tanziling Ridge, but still only had a limited view of the dam wall as the fog hadn't fully lifted.
After this it was down to look at the lock set up then walk back to the bus. Finally the fog lifted and the sun appeared. It had become very hot and humid. More information about 'The Project' can be found here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Gorges_Dam
Back on the bus and an hour's drive later we where in Yichang, Alan's hometown, to collect our luggage and explore parts of Yichang before catching the sleeper train to Xi’an.
Paula was starting to 'wilt' a little during our visit to the free museum in Yichang, not sure if she has 'Bali belly' or the humidity has gotten to her. She is pale and has Avery upset stomach. John has some medication he has brought from Ireland specifically for when symptoms of diarrhoea and vomiting appear and also a tablet to take to replace the electrolytes lost from being sick. He has offered these to her.
After lunch we visited a massage parlour where Jane enjoyed a foot and neck massage while the rest of us used the wifi and enjoyed the pleasant conditions under the air conditioning.
This was a very welcome rest from the heat with massage parlour also offering, lemon water, fruit and biscuits.
Paula took one of John's tablets but decided not to join us for a beautiful dinner organised by Alan.
After dinner, Alan's friend, Mr Han (the driver) took us to the station to catch the train, just after we hopped out of the car Paula was sick.
It was inside the train station that Alan organised for a porter to take Paula and Jane and their luggage straight to our carriage. It was a good call as she would have struggled in the line to get through the ticket gate (I’ve seen sheep do a better job of getting through a gate than the Chinese passengers, they don't know how to, or want to line up and to wait, they just barge!) It would have been even worse for her to get to the platform as the escalator had stopped working and we had to carry the bags up 4 sets of stairs.
When we finally got to the carriage Jane already had Paula settled and she was soon asleep. Alan helped organise the luggage and we settled in for the overnight train journey.
Wednesday July 4
Having an early breakfast gives you a chance to make the most of the day. Showered, breakfast finished, room keys returned and ready to disembark all by 7.20am. We left the 'Goddess 2' for the last time and walked down the pier to another boat to take us through the vertical ship lift along side the Three Gorges Dam. It had rained fairly heavily through the night and a fog had settled over the river. We would not have the best view of the actual dam but would quickly appreciate the enormity of 'The Project'.
The vertical ship lift is an engineering marvel, similar disbelief to the workings of the Falkirk Wheel. The vertical ship lift works on a screw principle but it is the sheer size of the lift and the weight it carries over 100 metres straight up or down (depending which way the boat is travelling) that is amazing.
The whole process takes 30 minutes where as the five lock system, next door, which caters for larger vessels, takes over 2 1/2 hours.
Once through the lift and now downstream of the dam we docked and moved onto a bus to take us on a tour of the rest of the project. We had to go through very strict security before we could enter but once sorted we were able to leave our belongings on the bus for the duration of the visit.
We saw a great model of the whole dam complex which made it easier to appreciate the whole set up. We then ventured to the highest point of the complex, Tanziling Ridge, but still only had a limited view of the dam wall as the fog hadn't fully lifted.
After this it was down to look at the lock set up then walk back to the bus. Finally the fog lifted and the sun appeared. It had become very hot and humid. More information about 'The Project' can be found here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Gorges_Dam
Back on the bus and an hour's drive later we where in Yichang, Alan's hometown, to collect our luggage and explore parts of Yichang before catching the sleeper train to Xi’an.
Paula was starting to 'wilt' a little during our visit to the free museum in Yichang, not sure if she has 'Bali belly' or the humidity has gotten to her. She is pale and has Avery upset stomach. John has some medication he has brought from Ireland specifically for when symptoms of diarrhoea and vomiting appear and also a tablet to take to replace the electrolytes lost from being sick. He has offered these to her.
After lunch we visited a massage parlour where Jane enjoyed a foot and neck massage while the rest of us used the wifi and enjoyed the pleasant conditions under the air conditioning.
This was a very welcome rest from the heat with massage parlour also offering, lemon water, fruit and biscuits.
Paula took one of John's tablets but decided not to join us for a beautiful dinner organised by Alan.
After dinner, Alan's friend, Mr Han (the driver) took us to the station to catch the train, just after we hopped out of the car Paula was sick.
It was inside the train station that Alan organised for a porter to take Paula and Jane and their luggage straight to our carriage. It was a good call as she would have struggled in the line to get through the ticket gate (I’ve seen sheep do a better job of getting through a gate than the Chinese passengers, they don't know how to, or want to line up and to wait, they just barge!) It would have been even worse for her to get to the platform as the escalator had stopped working and we had to carry the bags up 4 sets of stairs.
When we finally got to the carriage Jane already had Paula settled and she was soon asleep. Alan helped organise the luggage and we settled in for the overnight train journey.
Our 'sleeping slot'.
Entering the Ship Lift
In the Ship Lift
Leaving the Ship Lift
A model of the 'The Project', showing the Dam Wall, Ship Lift and 5 Lock System.
The screw mechanism that drives the Ship Lift.
John and Jane were happy to take the top bunks, we are sharing a very small, 4 cot cabin with them, although probably better called a 'sleeping slot' rather than a cabin. Alan is sharing with other travellers four cabins down. We are all in carriage 6.
It was a slow journey, lots of stops for other passengers but definitely an experience to have had, but once is enough. Quite interesting to sit and watch 3 people sleep, enjoy the sounds of fellow travellers and the rhythmic noises associated with train travel.
Day 11
Thursday July 5
We have managed to survive the confined quarters of the sleeping slot (cabin) without any real issue and Paula seems to be feeling a lot better after her sleep. Maybe we are fortunate that she became sick on this leg as the time on the sleeper train mainly confined you to the cabin.
The countryside we came through this morning on entering Xi’an is very mountainous, how much of China is like this? After talking to Alan apparently a substantial amount! On our trip so far the only real flat area was around Shanghai. We have since found out only 15% China is arable.
When we arrived at the Skytel Hotel our rooms weren't ready so Alan took us for an explore around the immediate area of the hotel. Xi’an has a population of 8 million people and to me was the most appealing city we visited.
Thursday July 5
We have managed to survive the confined quarters of the sleeping slot (cabin) without any real issue and Paula seems to be feeling a lot better after her sleep. Maybe we are fortunate that she became sick on this leg as the time on the sleeper train mainly confined you to the cabin.
The countryside we came through this morning on entering Xi’an is very mountainous, how much of China is like this? After talking to Alan apparently a substantial amount! On our trip so far the only real flat area was around Shanghai. We have since found out only 15% China is arable.
When we arrived at the Skytel Hotel our rooms weren't ready so Alan took us for an explore around the immediate area of the hotel. Xi’an has a population of 8 million people and to me was the most appealing city we visited.
Xi'an - a beautiful Chinese City.
We walked up to the City wall at the South Gate then had breakfast at Youth Hostel near the hotel.
Once we had our rooms at Skytel Hotel we unpacked, showered and were ready to meet Alan in the foyer by 11.30am. We walked down the road and caught a public bus, 609 (standing room only) to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. The Pagoda is a very old Buddhist temple. We were introduced to Patrick who was to be our local guide. He was very informative and spoke very good English. He is also a calligraphy teacher and was able to take us into an area where he showed us how to write Chinese characters. He wrote Ireland for Jane & John then Australia for us in Chinese characters. After this he then showed how the brush can be used to draw with, making a bamboo picture for us and a name sign for Jane & John's granddaughter, Ciara.
We had a small serve of steamed dumplings for lunch then walked down past Fountain Park to the subway. The subway is only 1 year old, (even smells new). We took 2 lines to the stop below and outside the wall at South Gate, paid to enter the wall for our 14 kilometre cycle around the wall.
Jane went to hire 4 bikes but was told that we were too old, their insurance won't cover us! We were a little disappointed, but rules are rules especially in China, or so we thought.
We decided to walk part way round, looking at interesting sites from the wall, especially the beautiful moat garden that goes right the way around, but also saw other riders on bikes older than us. We decided to try a social experiment, John asked to hire - no issue, Ken - no issue, Paula - no issue. Jane now really 'pissed'!
Apparently not all rules are rules, depends who you encounter!
We walked some more and saw wedding couples having photos taken.
When we were back in the hotel we met Alan at 6.30pm.
Once we had our rooms at Skytel Hotel we unpacked, showered and were ready to meet Alan in the foyer by 11.30am. We walked down the road and caught a public bus, 609 (standing room only) to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. The Pagoda is a very old Buddhist temple. We were introduced to Patrick who was to be our local guide. He was very informative and spoke very good English. He is also a calligraphy teacher and was able to take us into an area where he showed us how to write Chinese characters. He wrote Ireland for Jane & John then Australia for us in Chinese characters. After this he then showed how the brush can be used to draw with, making a bamboo picture for us and a name sign for Jane & John's granddaughter, Ciara.
We had a small serve of steamed dumplings for lunch then walked down past Fountain Park to the subway. The subway is only 1 year old, (even smells new). We took 2 lines to the stop below and outside the wall at South Gate, paid to enter the wall for our 14 kilometre cycle around the wall.
Jane went to hire 4 bikes but was told that we were too old, their insurance won't cover us! We were a little disappointed, but rules are rules especially in China, or so we thought.
We decided to walk part way round, looking at interesting sites from the wall, especially the beautiful moat garden that goes right the way around, but also saw other riders on bikes older than us. We decided to try a social experiment, John asked to hire - no issue, Ken - no issue, Paula - no issue. Jane now really 'pissed'!
Apparently not all rules are rules, depends who you encounter!
We walked some more and saw wedding couples having photos taken.
When we were back in the hotel we met Alan at 6.30pm.
Pray mats at the Great Mosque
We walked to the Muslim Quarter, had some fresh water melon on the way, to view the Great Mosque. I have never been in a mosque before, but have learnt a little more about the Islamic faith. We saw hundreds of prayer mats laid out for evening prayer, one of five times they pray in a day.
From here we experienced street food for dinner, lamb kebabs, on a bamboo skewer, Chinese bread, lotus seeds and tasted a '1000 year' old egg - Alan 'peeled' the shell, it is all black inside but tasted ok.
From here we headed back towards the hotel using a great underground circular passage that links all footpaths around the roundabout at the Bell Tower.
From here we experienced street food for dinner, lamb kebabs, on a bamboo skewer, Chinese bread, lotus seeds and tasted a '1000 year' old egg - Alan 'peeled' the shell, it is all black inside but tasted ok.
From here we headed back towards the hotel using a great underground circular passage that links all footpaths around the roundabout at the Bell Tower.
Paula and Alan headed back to the hotel, Ken, Jane & John went to 'bar street'. It is aptly named, every building in the street is a bar of some sort. We had a Carlsberg beer and watched a soccer replay of a World Cup game. China is alive and well in regard to the World Cup, soccer paraphernalia everywhere. They didn't say anything until the next day but today was John & Jane's 38th wedding anniversary.
After the beer we headed back to the hotel and in bed for an early start again tomorrow.
After the beer we headed back to the hotel and in bed for an early start again tomorrow.
Day 12
Friday July 6
Early breakfast was at 7.00am with us ready to leave at 8.00am with our local guide, Nancy, travelling with us.
It was a 1 hr drive to a very tourist orientated venue, the Terracotta Warriors, (some extra 'catchup' naps were had!) As part of the Peregrine Tour we were able to park in the area near the family homes. These homes have been purpose built for the locals as they have been displaced from their farming land after the Terracotta warriors were found in 1974. They now work around the site or run street stalls selling food or souvenirs.
Nancy gave us a good rundown on the history and story behind the Terracotta Warriors (she is also very knowledgeable with good English). She ably escorted us around the site starting with Pit 1 - the whole place is mind boggling - the warriors themselves, how they were found (all smashed), why they are there, why the colour has faded, the archeological significance, the number still uncovered, the audacity of China's first emperor, Qin Shi Huang Di (of the Qin Dynasty) for wanting it built, the cost for the people (and the lives of the builders), the fact that it was lost history for the Chinese for almost 2000 years. The Emperor had built himself an army supposedly to look after him in his after life. This site gives a good account of the findings and discoveries within the area.
https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/terra-cotta-soldiers-on-the-march-30942673/
Pit 1 contains the main military force, generals and infantry- Pit 2 the command post of the army garrison and Pit 3 the archers (which is still only just being excavated).
Friday July 6
Early breakfast was at 7.00am with us ready to leave at 8.00am with our local guide, Nancy, travelling with us.
It was a 1 hr drive to a very tourist orientated venue, the Terracotta Warriors, (some extra 'catchup' naps were had!) As part of the Peregrine Tour we were able to park in the area near the family homes. These homes have been purpose built for the locals as they have been displaced from their farming land after the Terracotta warriors were found in 1974. They now work around the site or run street stalls selling food or souvenirs.
Nancy gave us a good rundown on the history and story behind the Terracotta Warriors (she is also very knowledgeable with good English). She ably escorted us around the site starting with Pit 1 - the whole place is mind boggling - the warriors themselves, how they were found (all smashed), why they are there, why the colour has faded, the archeological significance, the number still uncovered, the audacity of China's first emperor, Qin Shi Huang Di (of the Qin Dynasty) for wanting it built, the cost for the people (and the lives of the builders), the fact that it was lost history for the Chinese for almost 2000 years. The Emperor had built himself an army supposedly to look after him in his after life. This site gives a good account of the findings and discoveries within the area.
https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/terra-cotta-soldiers-on-the-march-30942673/
Pit 1 contains the main military force, generals and infantry- Pit 2 the command post of the army garrison and Pit 3 the archers (which is still only just being excavated).
Pit 1
Pit 2
Pit 3
The Terracotta Warriors
Our final visit was to the Bronze Gallery to see relics that had been pulled from the Mausoleum of the Emperor, they were very ornate and quite interesting. Two model bronze chariots, one was carrying a soldier of high rank the second was for the Emperor himself. It was a closed in carriage with a square bottom and a round roof. These are very significant aspects of the Chinese belief system of the times. We were to see more of these aspects in the Temple of Heaven.
Bronze relics from the Emperor Qin Shi Huang Di's Mausoleum.
From here we went across to the souvenir shop and Ken purchased a book on the warriors callled 'Dreams'.
On our way to lunch with a local family Nancy helped guide two Americans who were lost, to find the car park, the Terracotta Warrior site is a very large complex indeed.
Our meal with the local family was excellent, especially the fresh and very hot Apple Toffee, a local delicacy, which we had for dessert. Alan promised only a small dinner after such a magnificent lunch.
After thanking our guests and meeting the chef we drove another hour to our next destination, again some catch up sleep was had on the drive.
Emperor Hanyangling's Mausoleum. His 'food' supply!
The next site was the Mausoleum of another Emperor, this one of the Han Dynasty, his name was Hanyangling. The Han Dynasty came after the Qin Dynasty. We had to put protective covers on our shoes to stop the glass surfaces we were walking on from being scratched. They made walking a little difficult as surfaces became a little slippery. This site is a new excavation with only 12 sections of a possible 81 being available for viewing. Again Nancy's knowledge helped our understanding of what we were seeing. This was another Emperor who wanted all his needs satisfied in the after life. There were sculptures of 3000 concubines and serving eunuchs as well as sculptures of pigs, lambs, cows and dogs (he liked to eat dog meat). These were buried with him when he died.
From here it was about an hour and a half to the hotel. We came back along the city wall and through the north gate which is not as spectacular as the South Gate.
Thankfully we are using the same car to transport us to the railway station in the morning as Jane's phone had slipped out of her pocket without her noticing on the way back. A few frantic moments when she first discovered it was missing but feeling much better when reassured by Alan it had been found and would be returned the next morning.
Alan organised us for dinner at 6.30pm and as promised it was only a light meal but again he has been able to tease our palates with some great dishes.
He lead us back to Bell Tower Square, with the Bell Tower Hotel as a landmark then left us to our own devices.
Paula was keen to explore the Muslim Quarter markets again so we headed off - initially in the wrong direction!
Thankfully a Frenchman, who spoke great English, asked what we were looking for. He gave us perfect directions and we tried again, much better success on the second go.
We started out going through the food stall section, it was just a mash of humanity and hot.
Thankfully we are using the same car to transport us to the railway station in the morning as Jane's phone had slipped out of her pocket without her noticing on the way back. A few frantic moments when she first discovered it was missing but feeling much better when reassured by Alan it had been found and would be returned the next morning.
Alan organised us for dinner at 6.30pm and as promised it was only a light meal but again he has been able to tease our palates with some great dishes.
He lead us back to Bell Tower Square, with the Bell Tower Hotel as a landmark then left us to our own devices.
Paula was keen to explore the Muslim Quarter markets again so we headed off - initially in the wrong direction!
Thankfully a Frenchman, who spoke great English, asked what we were looking for. He gave us perfect directions and we tried again, much better success on the second go.
We started out going through the food stall section, it was just a mash of humanity and hot.
Mass of people in the food stall section of the Muslim Quarter.
Ken and John stopped and suggested Paula and Jane continue by themselves, they weren't gone for very long.
They came back after having figured the nic-nac markets were further on.
They were correct and this area was less crowded and a lot cooler.
With a bit of haggling Paula successfully and cheaply bought souvenirs for all 4 grand children.
On the way back Paula headed to the hotel by herself while Ken, Jane & John again enjoyed a beer in 'bar street' before calling it a night.
Tomorrow it is pack for a 9.00am departure for the bullet train journey to Beijing, 1500kms in just over 5hrs. We have experienced every different sort of transport in China except for push bikes, a scooter or motorised rickshaw.
They came back after having figured the nic-nac markets were further on.
They were correct and this area was less crowded and a lot cooler.
With a bit of haggling Paula successfully and cheaply bought souvenirs for all 4 grand children.
On the way back Paula headed to the hotel by herself while Ken, Jane & John again enjoyed a beer in 'bar street' before calling it a night.
Tomorrow it is pack for a 9.00am departure for the bullet train journey to Beijing, 1500kms in just over 5hrs. We have experienced every different sort of transport in China except for push bikes, a scooter or motorised rickshaw.
Day 13
Saturday July 7
We were all organised, checked out and ready to leave before 9.00am, becoming very proficient at packing. Jane has her phone back as well.
To ride or drive in China is a skill in itself, especially in the cities. Almost all streets have a merging system or traffic police. At one intersection we noticed that all the police officers were female. How there aren't more accidents when the cars, bikes, scooters and pedestrians all seem determined to use the same piece of road has me beat. No such thing as indicating and if you didn’t learn to use the horn as part of your driver training you are in trouble!
At the fast train station, this one is also fairly new and obviously built for expansion, we were quickly through security and settled to wait for the train.
Boarding was uneventful and the trip very quick. Even though we are travelling through the countryside as well as major cities the smog and haze is always present.
It would be interesting to ask how many Chinese people have actually seen a blue sky for more than a few minutes?
Saturday July 7
We were all organised, checked out and ready to leave before 9.00am, becoming very proficient at packing. Jane has her phone back as well.
To ride or drive in China is a skill in itself, especially in the cities. Almost all streets have a merging system or traffic police. At one intersection we noticed that all the police officers were female. How there aren't more accidents when the cars, bikes, scooters and pedestrians all seem determined to use the same piece of road has me beat. No such thing as indicating and if you didn’t learn to use the horn as part of your driver training you are in trouble!
At the fast train station, this one is also fairly new and obviously built for expansion, we were quickly through security and settled to wait for the train.
Boarding was uneventful and the trip very quick. Even though we are travelling through the countryside as well as major cities the smog and haze is always present.
It would be interesting to ask how many Chinese people have actually seen a blue sky for more than a few minutes?
We arrived as it was starting to rain but thankfully the Dongfang Hotel, which is 100 years old this year, had undercover parking for guests arriving so we didn't get too wet. The hotel is very ornate with lots of little rooms running off the main entry foyer area, it will be interesting to explore if we get a bit of free time. First impression of Beijing, which has a population of over 22 million people is that it is very, very old.
After booking into our rooms, we unpacked, showered then met Alan at 6.00pm for an orientation walk and dinner.
The Dongfang Hotel is in an interesting part of Beijing (‘jing' in Chinese means capital) with various hutong areas around the hotel. Hutongs are old style living quarters for the locals. They are usually a narrow street or alley commonly associated with northern Chinese cities, especially Beijing.
After booking into our rooms, we unpacked, showered then met Alan at 6.00pm for an orientation walk and dinner.
The Dongfang Hotel is in an interesting part of Beijing (‘jing' in Chinese means capital) with various hutong areas around the hotel. Hutongs are old style living quarters for the locals. They are usually a narrow street or alley commonly associated with northern Chinese cities, especially Beijing.
The Dongfang Hotel, very ornate.
In Beijing, hutongs are alleys formed by lines of siheyuan, traditional courtyard residences. Many neighbourhoods were formed by joining one siheyuan to another to form a hutong, and then joining one hutong to another. Some of the hutong sites are being knocked down in most cases for new housing developments. Alan believes that unfortunately it will change the whole nature of the area. He also explained that the alleys running North-South connect with other streets and those running East-West in dead-ends. The purpose was for protection and to trap any invading enemies.
Dinner, again was too much, but because it is in front of us we continue to eat it! We are almost all Chinese food done! Although we didn't leave much behind.
We all like Chinese food as the norm, but it is starting to not like us. Jane & John both have been feeling a little like Paula has been with upset stomachs.
Dinner, again was too much, but because it is in front of us we continue to eat it! We are almost all Chinese food done! Although we didn't leave much behind.
We all like Chinese food as the norm, but it is starting to not like us. Jane & John both have been feeling a little like Paula has been with upset stomachs.
Exploring the 'Hutong' at night.
(Who would be an electrician in China - this is the norm in most areas away from the main sections of the city.)
On the way back to the motel Alan showed us where the nearest supermarket was and we bought some snacks and extra water. On the way back we spotted the seedier side of Chinese living, a drunk Chinese man urinating in public, he dropped 'it' out where he was sitting and pee'd down the stairs.
Back at the hotel Alan gave us free time and suggested we might like to visit a hutong.
The four of us decided to walk into the local hutong just down from the hotel.
It started to sprinkle just as we started out. Umbrellas were the order of the day, but we only had 3. Ken purchased one at the first opportunity, it was a good call as the rain only got heavier as the night went on. Down a narrow street to start with then into a broader road with shops and eateries with lots of people still out even though it was raining fairly heavily. We came to a major road and decided to turn back, just in case, didn't want to get lost this late in the trip.
On the way back we stopped at a Mahjong group playing in a small hall. They allowed Paula to take a photo. Back at the hotel we were all a little wet so called it a night. We didn't have to set an early alarm as tomorrow the first excursion isn't until 8.00am so we can even have a slightly later breakfast.
Back at the hotel Alan gave us free time and suggested we might like to visit a hutong.
The four of us decided to walk into the local hutong just down from the hotel.
It started to sprinkle just as we started out. Umbrellas were the order of the day, but we only had 3. Ken purchased one at the first opportunity, it was a good call as the rain only got heavier as the night went on. Down a narrow street to start with then into a broader road with shops and eateries with lots of people still out even though it was raining fairly heavily. We came to a major road and decided to turn back, just in case, didn't want to get lost this late in the trip.
On the way back we stopped at a Mahjong group playing in a small hall. They allowed Paula to take a photo. Back at the hotel we were all a little wet so called it a night. We didn't have to set an early alarm as tomorrow the first excursion isn't until 8.00am so we can even have a slightly later breakfast.
Day 14
Sunday July 8
Maybe going to breakfast a little later than 7.00am was not such a good idea! The breakfast room was packed with over 100 teenagers from 3 different countries, Kyrgyzstan, Russia and Kazakhstan. It was very difficult to find a seat let alone get to the food! We spoke to a young girl who had good English and she told us a little bit more about why they were here.
We met Alan at the appointed time and hopped into an awesome Honda van, electrical gadgets everywhere!
Tiananmen Square is an absolutely enormous area. It can hold over one million people at a time. The information Alan told us about the students and the protest of June 4, 1989 was very confronting, besides the thousands shot or squashed by tanks in the square that day many thousands more were later arrested and died soon after. Their parents where told they were enemies of the state and that families should not remember them! Most parents believed the state and did what they were told, didn't even have a funeral service for their children and destroyed all memories of them, including burning photos.
The other amazing aspect was the huge line of Chinese people waiting to get into see Chairman Mao laying in state in the Memorial Hall. The line seemed to snake for miles.
There are far too many things to describe about the square, this website has the detail about what we saw.
https://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/beijing/tianan.htm
Sunday July 8
Maybe going to breakfast a little later than 7.00am was not such a good idea! The breakfast room was packed with over 100 teenagers from 3 different countries, Kyrgyzstan, Russia and Kazakhstan. It was very difficult to find a seat let alone get to the food! We spoke to a young girl who had good English and she told us a little bit more about why they were here.
We met Alan at the appointed time and hopped into an awesome Honda van, electrical gadgets everywhere!
Tiananmen Square is an absolutely enormous area. It can hold over one million people at a time. The information Alan told us about the students and the protest of June 4, 1989 was very confronting, besides the thousands shot or squashed by tanks in the square that day many thousands more were later arrested and died soon after. Their parents where told they were enemies of the state and that families should not remember them! Most parents believed the state and did what they were told, didn't even have a funeral service for their children and destroyed all memories of them, including burning photos.
The other amazing aspect was the huge line of Chinese people waiting to get into see Chairman Mao laying in state in the Memorial Hall. The line seemed to snake for miles.
There are far too many things to describe about the square, this website has the detail about what we saw.
https://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/beijing/tianan.htm
Images of Tian'anmen Square
The crowds lining up to get into the Memorial Hall to see Chairman Mao 'in state'.
The Forbidden City was our next visit, words can't describe what it looks like. It seems incredible that one person could have so much in a country where so many had so little. The Emperor was God!
Alan allowed us a number of opportunities to wander around and take photos and gave us a rest period in the shade in the middle of the complex, at the same time giving us a pocket history of its development and use. It was good to have a break as the weather had cleared up from what looked like rain to a very warm, humid day.
The things that strike me as interesting are the sheer size of the area, the golden roof tiles, the ten animal figurines on the roof corners (the different number of animals signified the importance of the building), the extensive use of marble, the fact that the city north to south is symmetrical and there are people everywhere! A the time the Emperor was living there the Forbidden City housed 20,000 people.
Again walking through the Forbidden City we where asked to have our photos taken with different Chinese people and groups, lots of student groups on summer holiday camps visiting as well.
This link gives a good overview of the Forbidden City.
https://www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/beijing/forbidden.htm
Alan allowed us a number of opportunities to wander around and take photos and gave us a rest period in the shade in the middle of the complex, at the same time giving us a pocket history of its development and use. It was good to have a break as the weather had cleared up from what looked like rain to a very warm, humid day.
The things that strike me as interesting are the sheer size of the area, the golden roof tiles, the ten animal figurines on the roof corners (the different number of animals signified the importance of the building), the extensive use of marble, the fact that the city north to south is symmetrical and there are people everywhere! A the time the Emperor was living there the Forbidden City housed 20,000 people.
Again walking through the Forbidden City we where asked to have our photos taken with different Chinese people and groups, lots of student groups on summer holiday camps visiting as well.
This link gives a good overview of the Forbidden City.
https://www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/beijing/forbidden.htm
Images of the Forbidden City.
Forbidden City from the lookout.
From here we drove to the Temple of Heaven.
This is a site built to worship the earth and the heaven. The gardens and buildings take in a very large area as well. Nothing small in China if it had something to do with the Emperor or a Dynasty! There were over 2000 years of the Dynasties so they had a fair bit of time to get it right.
The earth is represented by square shapes and the heaven by a curved or rounded shape. It had a number of interesting sections. The Emperor came to the site twice a year, once to pray for a good harvest and growing season and the second time to give thanks to what had actually happened. He gave thanks regardless of whether it was a good, bad or indifferent season.
Again this web site will give better detail on the site than I can remember from Alan's stories or from reading the various information signs around the complex.
https://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/beijing/heaven/
This is a site built to worship the earth and the heaven. The gardens and buildings take in a very large area as well. Nothing small in China if it had something to do with the Emperor or a Dynasty! There were over 2000 years of the Dynasties so they had a fair bit of time to get it right.
The earth is represented by square shapes and the heaven by a curved or rounded shape. It had a number of interesting sections. The Emperor came to the site twice a year, once to pray for a good harvest and growing season and the second time to give thanks to what had actually happened. He gave thanks regardless of whether it was a good, bad or indifferent season.
Again this web site will give better detail on the site than I can remember from Alan's stories or from reading the various information signs around the complex.
https://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/beijing/heaven/
Lingxing Gates
After leaving the Forbidden City we walked up to the top of a man-made hill (Jingshan Park) that has a great view of the Forbidden City. It is also the highest point in Beijing. After spending sometime taking in the panoramic view of the Forbidden City and Beijing we walked down and around where the Emperor Chongzhen, the last ruler of the Ming dynasty hung himself. He committed suicide in 1644 after Beijing fell to Li Zicheng's rebel forces.
Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests
We finished in the Temple of Heaven just after 4.00pm. It was then back to the hotel for a quick shower, it had remained a humid day so we were all feeling fairly 'grotty'.
Alan wanted us back in the foyer by 5.10pm.
He took us to what was probably the highlight of the day, an hour long Acrobatic show that had to be seen to be believed. The acrobatics, by both males and females, the juggling, the lighting and sound effects were absolutely amazing, but were all topped by the last act; not 1 but in the end 6 motorbikes in a wall of death spectacular. They added to the drama by introducing the bikes in a staggered sequence that was timed perfectly, you could hear the intake of breath of the whole audience and sense that everyone was thinking the same thing - 'no way, not possible'!
We left the show breathless, it was that much of an adrenaline rush.
He took us to what was probably the highlight of the day, an hour long Acrobatic show that had to be seen to be believed. The acrobatics, by both males and females, the juggling, the lighting and sound effects were absolutely amazing, but were all topped by the last act; not 1 but in the end 6 motorbikes in a wall of death spectacular. They added to the drama by introducing the bikes in a staggered sequence that was timed perfectly, you could hear the intake of breath of the whole audience and sense that everyone was thinking the same thing - 'no way, not possible'!
We left the show breathless, it was that much of an adrenaline rush.
Spectacular acrobatic show.
We had a very simple dinner, one fish course, rice and a vegetable dish - perfect.
But what a fish dish it was!
But what a fish dish it was!
Alan organised the meal for us and then pointed us in the direction of the hotel. The rest of the night for us was free time.
After the meal we leisurely walked back to the hotel, nice in a way not to have to keep to Alan's pace. Back at the hotel we had coffee and ice creams in the hotel coffee shop, a very decadent early 1920's atmosphere! We talked about family for a while then decided to make it an early night, 7.00am for breakfast. Alan wanted us on the bus by 7.30am for our visit to the Great Wall of China and the Summer Palace.
After the meal we leisurely walked back to the hotel, nice in a way not to have to keep to Alan's pace. Back at the hotel we had coffee and ice creams in the hotel coffee shop, a very decadent early 1920's atmosphere! We talked about family for a while then decided to make it an early night, 7.00am for breakfast. Alan wanted us on the bus by 7.30am for our visit to the Great Wall of China and the Summer Palace.
Day 15
Monday July 9
The teenagers are 'still in the building' so even though we got there before 7.00am it was still busy.
A quick breakfast had us all ready and on the bus before 7.30am, Alan was indeed impressed, we were waiting for him!
This was our first real drive through the countryside, a chance to look at various agricultural pursuits and to view the various smaller towns we passed through. On the drive we noticed numerous outdoor Table Tennis tables in the villages. In one town we saw a park with 10 tables, perhaps set up for competition.
The 2hr drive to the Great Wall didn't seem to take that long and it took us back into the mountainous area north of Beijing.
Monday July 9
The teenagers are 'still in the building' so even though we got there before 7.00am it was still busy.
A quick breakfast had us all ready and on the bus before 7.30am, Alan was indeed impressed, we were waiting for him!
This was our first real drive through the countryside, a chance to look at various agricultural pursuits and to view the various smaller towns we passed through. On the drive we noticed numerous outdoor Table Tennis tables in the villages. In one town we saw a park with 10 tables, perhaps set up for competition.
The 2hr drive to the Great Wall didn't seem to take that long and it took us back into the mountainous area north of Beijing.
The area, Mutianyu, had had considerable rainfall the day before which meant the paths to the Great Wall were still slippery from the sand that had washed over them. It had also left the area covered in fog. Although our 2 hours on the Great Wall was when the fog was at it's least obtrusive for the day, Paula was disappointed that we weren't able to take some great photos of the wall snaking through the countryside. Those arriving as we were leaving wouldn't have been able to see more than 10 to 15 metres in front of themselves.
Alan indicated that we had 3 options to get to the wall; a chairlift (to Tower 14) the highest point on this section of the wall, ski lift (to Tower 8) or walk the 880 steps to Tower 10. Tower 10 puts you right in the middle of this section of the wall. You can chose to turn right down to Tower 1 or left to Tower 20.
We all chose to walk the 880 steps. It was hard work and because we were walking in warm and humid conditions we were all drenched before we even got halfway to the wall itself! Paula beat us easily to the wall and was waiting to take our photos when we reached Tower 10. The wall is everything you have heard, read or seen and even more, it it truly a wonder of the world. The Great Wall is said to be also the longest graveyard in the world as well, with the workers who died whilst the wall was being built being buried within its confines. It would have been arduous work in very steep and unforgiving country.
Paula, John and Jane did 10 towers in total in the time we had on the wall. Ken was a bit of a wimp and only managed 4. The Great Wall would have been a very difficult structure to have attacked and even if you did manage to breach it, it had some very steep climbs and awkward steps built on the wall itself to make advancement difficult. It truly is an amazing structure.
Alan indicated that we had 3 options to get to the wall; a chairlift (to Tower 14) the highest point on this section of the wall, ski lift (to Tower 8) or walk the 880 steps to Tower 10. Tower 10 puts you right in the middle of this section of the wall. You can chose to turn right down to Tower 1 or left to Tower 20.
We all chose to walk the 880 steps. It was hard work and because we were walking in warm and humid conditions we were all drenched before we even got halfway to the wall itself! Paula beat us easily to the wall and was waiting to take our photos when we reached Tower 10. The wall is everything you have heard, read or seen and even more, it it truly a wonder of the world. The Great Wall is said to be also the longest graveyard in the world as well, with the workers who died whilst the wall was being built being buried within its confines. It would have been arduous work in very steep and unforgiving country.
Paula, John and Jane did 10 towers in total in the time we had on the wall. Ken was a bit of a wimp and only managed 4. The Great Wall would have been a very difficult structure to have attacked and even if you did manage to breach it, it had some very steep climbs and awkward steps built on the wall itself to make advancement difficult. It truly is an amazing structure.
On the Great Wall.
A map of this section of the Great Wall.
Getting to the Great Wall - 880 steps!
With only two hours on the Great Wall you get a very small taste for what the whole complex would be like. We were on a section just over 2 1/2 kilometres in length, the Great Wall of China is 21,196 kilometres long in total!
This link will give you a better appreciation of its true complexity.
https://www.chinahighlights.com/greatwall/
We met Alan at 12.30 pm for a Subway lunch. Our timing with the weather all trip has been good and today was no exception. As we reached the Subway building it started to rain and the fog became thicker.
After lunch we headed to the Summer Palace, another 2 hr drive but back in the direction of Beijing.
This link will give you a better appreciation of its true complexity.
https://www.chinahighlights.com/greatwall/
We met Alan at 12.30 pm for a Subway lunch. Our timing with the weather all trip has been good and today was no exception. As we reached the Subway building it started to rain and the fog became thicker.
After lunch we headed to the Summer Palace, another 2 hr drive but back in the direction of Beijing.
The Summer Palace is just that, a place for the Emperor to go in Summer. The palace is a huge garden around a man-made lake, designed for the Emperor's mother. The lake is 1.5 metres deep in all sections and covers a significant area. The Summer Palace also has a corridor 728 metres long along the side of the lake, with painted scenes the Emperor thought his mother might enjoy.
The following link gives a good overview of what we saw.
https://www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/beijing/summer.htm
The more interesting aspects of the palace were the stories around some of the people who lived there especially Dowager Cixi the Empress who ruled the Kingdom through her son. She killed (with poison) those she needed to so her son was put on the throne, then killed anyone else who could potential pose a threat. She was a very nasty piece of work and apparently according to legend she began her scheming when she married the Emperor as a 16 year old girl.
The following link gives a good overview of what we saw.
https://www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/beijing/summer.htm
The more interesting aspects of the palace were the stories around some of the people who lived there especially Dowager Cixi the Empress who ruled the Kingdom through her son. She killed (with poison) those she needed to so her son was put on the throne, then killed anyone else who could potential pose a threat. She was a very nasty piece of work and apparently according to legend she began her scheming when she married the Emperor as a 16 year old girl.
Images of the Summer Palace.
From here it was back to the hotel for a shower and change of clothes before having a special last night celebration of Peking duck for dinner.
We said our last farewells to Alan, as we wouldn't see him in the morning and thanked him for the wonderful experiences we have had visiting China.
We said our last farewells to Alan, as we wouldn't see him in the morning and thanked him for the wonderful experiences we have had visiting China.
Our 'bikemobile' adventure machine.
Getting a taxi back was far more difficult than we had anticipated and in the end we had to settle for motorised, four seat rickshaw come motorbike type vehicle to get back to the hotel. In hindsight maybe the travel insurance may not have covered this type of travel!
It was a great little mini-adventure, putting the wind in our hair and getting a real feel for riding through a hutong as he took us through a number of back alleys to get us back to the hotel. It was a great finish to our visit to China even though it was far more expensive than a taxi - 21 yuan for the cab against 60 yuan for 'bikemobile'.
It was a great little mini-adventure, putting the wind in our hair and getting a real feel for riding through a hutong as he took us through a number of back alleys to get us back to the hotel. It was a great finish to our visit to China even though it was far more expensive than a taxi - 21 yuan for the cab against 60 yuan for 'bikemobile'.
We still had one little adventure to go.
John had a friend from work who had asked him to see if he could find an old convent were his aunt had been a nun in Beijing during the 1960s. John had a street name and picture of the building but no actual address.
Back at the hotel Alan did some quick research for us and found the street was only 2 blocks long and also found an article suggesting the convert may have been knocked down in the redevelopment of that particular area. It was in one of the hutong's that were being revitalised.
Alan helped us hail a taxi and explained to the driver where to take us.
We found the block ok but had no real luck in finding the building, almost the entire area was new shops or high rise hotels, one in particular, 'The Marriott', took up a whole block!
John had a friend from work who had asked him to see if he could find an old convent were his aunt had been a nun in Beijing during the 1960s. John had a street name and picture of the building but no actual address.
Back at the hotel Alan did some quick research for us and found the street was only 2 blocks long and also found an article suggesting the convert may have been knocked down in the redevelopment of that particular area. It was in one of the hutong's that were being revitalised.
Alan helped us hail a taxi and explained to the driver where to take us.
We found the block ok but had no real luck in finding the building, almost the entire area was new shops or high rise hotels, one in particular, 'The Marriott', took up a whole block!
For us it was no rush to pack or get to breakfast early as our transport to the airport wasn't until 2.20pm.
A little bit different for John and Jane, they had a 7.15am pick up for their flight to Hong Kong to meet their son. They were staying for a few days in Hong Kong with him to celebrate Jane's birthday before heading home to Ireland.
We said our farewells. Hopefully we can meet up again and the friendship can continue through e-mail and WhatsApp.
A little bit different for John and Jane, they had a 7.15am pick up for their flight to Hong Kong to meet their son. They were staying for a few days in Hong Kong with him to celebrate Jane's birthday before heading home to Ireland.
We said our farewells. Hopefully we can meet up again and the friendship can continue through e-mail and WhatsApp.
Day 16
Tuesday July 10
In no hurry today so we had a little sleep in, although our body clocks, fine tuned to Alan's specifications, wouldn't let us sleep too long. We showered, packed and had a later than usual breakfast. We tried to avoid the teenagers and had a bit of luck but a number are still in the hotel.
Back in the room we double-checked to make sure everything was in order before checking out and leaving the luggage with a very interesting luggage attendant. He wanted to feel the hair on my arm, I let him go the 'whole hog' and feel the beard as well, he gave me a great big smile!
We walked down to visit the Hutong area from the other night to buy some more souvenirs. It was an interesting walk watching the neighbourhood wake up and starting to work.
We continued to wander finding the Bell Tower, the centre of Beijing and also the Main Street, which has been significantly modernised although an old tram, now running on electricity, uses the original lines to ferry tourists around the area.
Tuesday July 10
In no hurry today so we had a little sleep in, although our body clocks, fine tuned to Alan's specifications, wouldn't let us sleep too long. We showered, packed and had a later than usual breakfast. We tried to avoid the teenagers and had a bit of luck but a number are still in the hotel.
Back in the room we double-checked to make sure everything was in order before checking out and leaving the luggage with a very interesting luggage attendant. He wanted to feel the hair on my arm, I let him go the 'whole hog' and feel the beard as well, he gave me a great big smile!
We walked down to visit the Hutong area from the other night to buy some more souvenirs. It was an interesting walk watching the neighbourhood wake up and starting to work.
We continued to wander finding the Bell Tower, the centre of Beijing and also the Main Street, which has been significantly modernised although an old tram, now running on electricity, uses the original lines to ferry tourists around the area.
Lanterns in a Hutong street.
Squat toilets in the Hutong. (No privacy!)
We had lunch, Ken a quick McDonald's meal and Paula some fruit. We managed to fill in the time before our transport to airport at 2.20pm without too much trouble. It was fortunate we were back before 2.20pm as the car arrived just after 2.00pm. The trip to the airport was uneventful and our departure through customs was far less complicated than our arrival. The flight from Beijing to Hong Kong arrived on time which gave us enough time to catch the service train to gate 49. This gate would have to be the furthest away on this section of the airport than any of the others.
Our flight, Sydney to Hong Kong, leaves at 11.55pm.
Our flight, Sydney to Hong Kong, leaves at 11.55pm.
Day 17
Wednesday July 11
Ken should have accepted Paula's offer to swap seats, the guy in front of Ken reclined for the whole trip and the lady behind had her feet in the back of his chair so he couldn't recline to compensate, claustrophobic conditions for the approximate 9 hours of the trip. He managed about 2 hours of patchy sleep the whole trip, otherwise he read or watched the screen on the backseat in front of him.
The meals where ok and our flight over Sydney into the airport, in beautiful blue skies was very pleasing to witness. I even managed a great photo of Sydney Harbour Bridge.
Wednesday July 11
Ken should have accepted Paula's offer to swap seats, the guy in front of Ken reclined for the whole trip and the lady behind had her feet in the back of his chair so he couldn't recline to compensate, claustrophobic conditions for the approximate 9 hours of the trip. He managed about 2 hours of patchy sleep the whole trip, otherwise he read or watched the screen on the backseat in front of him.
The meals where ok and our flight over Sydney into the airport, in beautiful blue skies was very pleasing to witness. I even managed a great photo of Sydney Harbour Bridge.
Quickly through border patrol before a quick dash to the toilets, the last three meals vanished in a flash for both of us!
It then took a while to retrieve our luggage and exit customs. Our shuttle driver rang just as we were collecting the luggage and instructed us as to where to meet, shuttle bay 13, just to the right as you leave McDonalds.
It was very quiet on the shuttle bus, Khal, our driver was very happy as all 3 passengers and himself were staying or live in Kellyville. He could go home for lunch.
It was great to be back and made even more special as Jake and Zoe were waiting out the front for us!
Our trip to China was officially finished.
Final reflections:
It then took a while to retrieve our luggage and exit customs. Our shuttle driver rang just as we were collecting the luggage and instructed us as to where to meet, shuttle bay 13, just to the right as you leave McDonalds.
It was very quiet on the shuttle bus, Khal, our driver was very happy as all 3 passengers and himself were staying or live in Kellyville. He could go home for lunch.
It was great to be back and made even more special as Jake and Zoe were waiting out the front for us!
Our trip to China was officially finished.
Final reflections:
- Everything about China is supersized.
- The constant haze and smog.
- The mass of humanity.
- The mountainous terrain.
- So different in lots of ways but also so familiar - the Chinese people are very friendly.
- No graffiti!
- Colourful and clean major areas of the main cities.
Back into Sydney and 'blue skies'!