China Trip 2018
Part 1
Day 1
Monday - June 25
We began our China trip with a leisurely 5hr drive to Sydney to leave the car at Scott’s house for the 15 days we are away.
When we left Wagga at 9.00am the temperature had crawled from -1 degrees to zero.
At present I am writing this in an air conditioned hotel room, having just finished a walk around some of the streets of Shanghai in 34 degree humid heat. The local weather app says it is 34 degrees but feels like 46!
We made Sydney in time to collect Jake from school and watch Zoe and Jake at swimming lessons. We were back at Scott’s for no more than 30 minutes when the shuttle service from the Hills district into the airport arrived and we were leaving.
Our driver had some good tips about travelling in China and we were happy to let her talk.
Traffic into the airport was reasonably heavy but nothing like we experienced in Shanghai when it took us 1 hour and 40 minutes to go 18 kilometres to our accommodation. Sydney gridlock does not even compare and this was the middle of the day.
Monday - June 25
We began our China trip with a leisurely 5hr drive to Sydney to leave the car at Scott’s house for the 15 days we are away.
When we left Wagga at 9.00am the temperature had crawled from -1 degrees to zero.
At present I am writing this in an air conditioned hotel room, having just finished a walk around some of the streets of Shanghai in 34 degree humid heat. The local weather app says it is 34 degrees but feels like 46!
We made Sydney in time to collect Jake from school and watch Zoe and Jake at swimming lessons. We were back at Scott’s for no more than 30 minutes when the shuttle service from the Hills district into the airport arrived and we were leaving.
Our driver had some good tips about travelling in China and we were happy to let her talk.
Traffic into the airport was reasonably heavy but nothing like we experienced in Shanghai when it took us 1 hour and 40 minutes to go 18 kilometres to our accommodation. Sydney gridlock does not even compare and this was the middle of the day.
Once at the airport it was the regular wait to have the bags labelled and to get the boarding passes. Through Border protection is heaps easy with the face scan recognition process but Paula slowed us down through the carry-on process when she forgot all the things in her pocket and had to go back twice through the body scan!
To top it off she then got caught with the fertiliser chemical check!
After getting through we had heaps of time to get a quick meal and change Aussie dollars into Chinese Yuan.
Boarding was uneventful but we were delayed on take off for about 10 minutes because of some missing paperwork.
To top it off she then got caught with the fertiliser chemical check!
After getting through we had heaps of time to get a quick meal and change Aussie dollars into Chinese Yuan.
Boarding was uneventful but we were delayed on take off for about 10 minutes because of some missing paperwork.
Our trip overview
Day 2
Tuesday - June 26
Cathay Pacific is a reasonably good airline, nothing overly flash but comfortable. The only problem was that for the first leg to Hong Kong Paula and I were separated. We watched a couple of movies and had a quick nap during the night. We experienced some turbulence which had the pilot making a detour and coupled with the delayed start put us 40 minutes behind schedule getting into Hong Kong.
Transfer through Hong Kong is slow and because we had limited time to get to our connecting flight we 'borrowed' some Chinese behaviour and barged in towards the front of the line, it did the trick and reduced the stress and the need to run through the airport to make our connection.
The Cathay Dragon flight (China's domestic service) Hong Kong to Shanghai was less than half full so had no problems being next to each other.
We had arrived in Hong Kong to a wet but pretty sunrise and left to a beautiful warm morning with no sign of the rain. Again the pilot promised us some turbulence and didn't disappoint, we only lost 10 minutes on this flight.
Chinese border protection is very different to every other country we have been to - Paula and I now have our fingerprints on record in China. The process is for every foreign visitor and if you refuse to give them your fingerprints you are not allowed into the country.
They take an electronic print of all your fingers and thumbs before you get to the border gates. You also have to fill out an arrival card and have your prints checked again as well as have your passport stamped and checked. It didn’t help that they only had minimal staff on for at least three plane loads of people had arrived at the same time. There was also a tour group of about 30 teenagers from one of the planes going through as well. They were given preferential treatment and went to the front of the line.
Thankfully our complimentary airport ride into our hotel, Kingtown Plaza, hadn't deserted us because we didn't get out with our luggage until at least an hour after our plane had arrived! We were also lucky that we spotted our names on the sign fairly quickly as there would have been a hundred or more drivers looking for specific passengers.
Shanghai is enormous and would be a nice city except for the blanket of smog - the whole of Shanghai just seems to grow as you travel through the streets. The main roads are all built up above ground level, which gives you a unique view as you drive through. The city has regular sections of green parks and gardens and even has ivy growing on the road support structures.
There is no graffiti and all major areas are spotless, lots of people working to keep the areas clean, well presented and maintained.
Some of the unit buildings look like they were built with kids playing LEGO, let’s see who can make the tallest building before it falls over. These tall unit buildings are dotted all over the landscape with many 'airing' their washing in bright coloured displays of clothing.
Kingtown Plaza Hotel is adequate, lovely warm showers which were nice to have after two long days of travel. Our walk allowed us to have a good look around the immediate area of the hotel get a few snacks and just appreciate wearing shorts and a t-shirt.
The area we are in is the older part of Shanghai and still has the specialist shops, no more than a door width wide just selling such things as copper plumbing pieces, scooter parts and repairs or just electrical needs.
Scooters and motorised pushbikes are the main form of transport around this area with some very weird contraptions being spotted.
It wasn’t unusual to see a rider on a pushbike or scooter with his workshop bolted to the bike as well.
Off to meet our guide and other companions at 6.00pm - should be interesting.
Very interesting indeed, we are a party of five!
Tuesday - June 26
Cathay Pacific is a reasonably good airline, nothing overly flash but comfortable. The only problem was that for the first leg to Hong Kong Paula and I were separated. We watched a couple of movies and had a quick nap during the night. We experienced some turbulence which had the pilot making a detour and coupled with the delayed start put us 40 minutes behind schedule getting into Hong Kong.
Transfer through Hong Kong is slow and because we had limited time to get to our connecting flight we 'borrowed' some Chinese behaviour and barged in towards the front of the line, it did the trick and reduced the stress and the need to run through the airport to make our connection.
The Cathay Dragon flight (China's domestic service) Hong Kong to Shanghai was less than half full so had no problems being next to each other.
We had arrived in Hong Kong to a wet but pretty sunrise and left to a beautiful warm morning with no sign of the rain. Again the pilot promised us some turbulence and didn't disappoint, we only lost 10 minutes on this flight.
Chinese border protection is very different to every other country we have been to - Paula and I now have our fingerprints on record in China. The process is for every foreign visitor and if you refuse to give them your fingerprints you are not allowed into the country.
They take an electronic print of all your fingers and thumbs before you get to the border gates. You also have to fill out an arrival card and have your prints checked again as well as have your passport stamped and checked. It didn’t help that they only had minimal staff on for at least three plane loads of people had arrived at the same time. There was also a tour group of about 30 teenagers from one of the planes going through as well. They were given preferential treatment and went to the front of the line.
Thankfully our complimentary airport ride into our hotel, Kingtown Plaza, hadn't deserted us because we didn't get out with our luggage until at least an hour after our plane had arrived! We were also lucky that we spotted our names on the sign fairly quickly as there would have been a hundred or more drivers looking for specific passengers.
Shanghai is enormous and would be a nice city except for the blanket of smog - the whole of Shanghai just seems to grow as you travel through the streets. The main roads are all built up above ground level, which gives you a unique view as you drive through. The city has regular sections of green parks and gardens and even has ivy growing on the road support structures.
There is no graffiti and all major areas are spotless, lots of people working to keep the areas clean, well presented and maintained.
Some of the unit buildings look like they were built with kids playing LEGO, let’s see who can make the tallest building before it falls over. These tall unit buildings are dotted all over the landscape with many 'airing' their washing in bright coloured displays of clothing.
Kingtown Plaza Hotel is adequate, lovely warm showers which were nice to have after two long days of travel. Our walk allowed us to have a good look around the immediate area of the hotel get a few snacks and just appreciate wearing shorts and a t-shirt.
The area we are in is the older part of Shanghai and still has the specialist shops, no more than a door width wide just selling such things as copper plumbing pieces, scooter parts and repairs or just electrical needs.
Scooters and motorised pushbikes are the main form of transport around this area with some very weird contraptions being spotted.
It wasn’t unusual to see a rider on a pushbike or scooter with his workshop bolted to the bike as well.
Off to meet our guide and other companions at 6.00pm - should be interesting.
Very interesting indeed, we are a party of five!
Alan (Chinese name Hongbin Liu) our Tour Guide
After our quick meeting Alan organised us to meet at 6.30pm and head for dinner.
Great not having to try and decide what to eat let alone find somewhere.
Alan found us a Muslim Chinese restaurant, reasonable food and cheap, 106 yuan for food and drinks for Paula & I, equates to about $25 Australian to feed us both.
From here we walked around parts of the main shopping square before heading back to the hotel. Sleep was easy.
Great not having to try and decide what to eat let alone find somewhere.
Alan found us a Muslim Chinese restaurant, reasonable food and cheap, 106 yuan for food and drinks for Paula & I, equates to about $25 Australian to feed us both.
From here we walked around parts of the main shopping square before heading back to the hotel. Sleep was easy.
Alan Liu our guide, John & Jane from a small village near Cork in Ireland and us.
Alan has been a tour guide for nine years and has excellent English. He is delighted to have such a small group.
We have so much in common with Jane & John it's not funny.
Jane is a Catholic primary school Principal turns 60 in July, John was 65 on April 13 (Paula's birthday)! These sorts of coincidence don't even happen in a 'Mills & Boon' storyline.
They have 3 boys, 1 grand daughter (16 month's old) with one son, currently working in Australia, and looks like living permanently in Melbourne.
We have common interests and have hit it off very easily.
Alan has been a tour guide for nine years and has excellent English. He is delighted to have such a small group.
We have so much in common with Jane & John it's not funny.
Jane is a Catholic primary school Principal turns 60 in July, John was 65 on April 13 (Paula's birthday)! These sorts of coincidence don't even happen in a 'Mills & Boon' storyline.
They have 3 boys, 1 grand daughter (16 month's old) with one son, currently working in Australia, and looks like living permanently in Melbourne.
We have common interests and have hit it off very easily.
John, Jane, Paula & Ken (at Zhouzhuang)
Day 3
Wednesday - June 27
Breakfast was organised for 7.00am in time for us to be ready to leave at 8.00am to walk to the Bund, a famous area of Shanghai along the Huangpu River. On one side you have the buildings of the colonial era when Western interest in Shanghai was at its height and on the opposite bank the new Shanghai (Pudong) built in the last 25 years on what once was rice paddies.
Extremely interesting buildings and history of which Alan has excellent knowledge. Alan took us into a building that was once the banking capital of the world, The Bank of Shanghai. It was ornate and spectacular - a beautiful building.
From here we walked to the Yu Gardens, a private garden. It was very interesting and what you picture ancient China to have been like. The garden is built along the themes of fertility, wealth and longevity. Even though it is built on only a small area it seems larger as it uses walls to screen one area from another. Very interesting use of rock formations, water and buildings.
The exit from the gardens had us in a market area. Alan gave us an hour of free time to wander the stalls and maybe find some souvenirs - nothing found but some ideas for later.
After meeting back up Alan took us to a two storey Chinese food hall - talk about production line service! Not sure we exactly enjoyed the meal but it was interesting to visit. Paula is getting handy with chopsticks - Ken still needs a spoon!
Wednesday - June 27
Breakfast was organised for 7.00am in time for us to be ready to leave at 8.00am to walk to the Bund, a famous area of Shanghai along the Huangpu River. On one side you have the buildings of the colonial era when Western interest in Shanghai was at its height and on the opposite bank the new Shanghai (Pudong) built in the last 25 years on what once was rice paddies.
Extremely interesting buildings and history of which Alan has excellent knowledge. Alan took us into a building that was once the banking capital of the world, The Bank of Shanghai. It was ornate and spectacular - a beautiful building.
From here we walked to the Yu Gardens, a private garden. It was very interesting and what you picture ancient China to have been like. The garden is built along the themes of fertility, wealth and longevity. Even though it is built on only a small area it seems larger as it uses walls to screen one area from another. Very interesting use of rock formations, water and buildings.
The exit from the gardens had us in a market area. Alan gave us an hour of free time to wander the stalls and maybe find some souvenirs - nothing found but some ideas for later.
After meeting back up Alan took us to a two storey Chinese food hall - talk about production line service! Not sure we exactly enjoyed the meal but it was interesting to visit. Paula is getting handy with chopsticks - Ken still needs a spoon!
Inside the Bank of Shanghai
Yu Gardens
Our next stop was a walk to the Shanghai Museum, Alan left us here with instructions on how to get back to the hotel. The building was beautifully air conditioned but we needed a drink and unfortunately they don't have a cafe inside. We left to find moisture - it was hot and humid, I think we would have almost consumed any liquid by this stage.
Once refreshed it was back to the museum. We spent nearly 2 hours in the air conditioned comfort looking at the history of jade in China, the monetary system (round coins with a square hole in the middle), the development of ceramics, calligraphy and silk screen drawing.
Once refreshed it was back to the museum. We spent nearly 2 hours in the air conditioned comfort looking at the history of jade in China, the monetary system (round coins with a square hole in the middle), the development of ceramics, calligraphy and silk screen drawing.
Our walk back was interesting with us being unable to find the underpass to cross a very major road for a while. In the process of looking we visited an underground shopping mall and got to see a very well guarded government building of some sort. This said you feel really safe in Shanghai, there are lots of traffic police but no armed security police like in Paris and other European countries.
We arrived back at the hotel ready for a shower and a quick rest, especially of the feet, before meeting Alan for dinner at 5.45pm. Before the shower it was a refreshing ice coffee with Jane & John, some Internet help and getting Paula set up with We Chat as WhatsApp doesn't work in China (nor does Google, FaceBook or iMessage).
We met Alan at the requested time and started our walk back into the central pedestrian area. It was different to this morning, crowds everywhere. Dinner was at Grandmother's Restaurant, a great feed just a little more expensive than the previous night but a lot tastier meal, 128 yuan each couple.
After leaving Jane & John, they were going clothes shopping (having arrived 2 days before us they had already been on the river boat cruise and had seen the lights), Alan lead us down to the Bund again for the 45 minute cruise.
It's a pity you are kept behind a glass barrier to view the lights and are not allowed on the railing to get a feel for the river and the lights, spoils it a bit.
We were lucky enough to be entertained by a 12 year old Chinese girl who wanted to practice her English with us. She seemed to enjoy herself as well.
We arrived back at the hotel ready for a shower and a quick rest, especially of the feet, before meeting Alan for dinner at 5.45pm. Before the shower it was a refreshing ice coffee with Jane & John, some Internet help and getting Paula set up with We Chat as WhatsApp doesn't work in China (nor does Google, FaceBook or iMessage).
We met Alan at the requested time and started our walk back into the central pedestrian area. It was different to this morning, crowds everywhere. Dinner was at Grandmother's Restaurant, a great feed just a little more expensive than the previous night but a lot tastier meal, 128 yuan each couple.
After leaving Jane & John, they were going clothes shopping (having arrived 2 days before us they had already been on the river boat cruise and had seen the lights), Alan lead us down to the Bund again for the 45 minute cruise.
It's a pity you are kept behind a glass barrier to view the lights and are not allowed on the railing to get a feel for the river and the lights, spoils it a bit.
We were lucky enough to be entertained by a 12 year old Chinese girl who wanted to practice her English with us. She seemed to enjoy herself as well.
Shanghai at Night
Once we finished the cruise and found Alan we walked the 3.4kms back to the hotel, with a quick detour to an Optometrist shop to try and get Ken's reading glasses fixed, he has lost a screw. Unfortunately they were just closing so we will go back tomorrow.
Back in the room it was wash some very sweaty clothes, check e-mails and have a good nights sleep. 9.00am on the bus and off to Water Town tomorrow.
Back in the room it was wash some very sweaty clothes, check e-mails and have a good nights sleep. 9.00am on the bus and off to Water Town tomorrow.
Day 4
Thursday - June 28
Breakfast was organised for 8.00am, a more leisurely start to the day, before catching the bus (a 22 seater for 5 people was a bit of overkill) but it was what had been arranged, at 9.00am.
Breakfast at the Kingtown Plaza Hotel has been very good, a variety of western type dishes and Chinese breakfast foods. We all seem to eat more than needed but it stops the need to buy snacks during the day.
Once on the bus Alan gave us a general rundown on the day as well as sorting out times and other details for our flight to Chengdu tomorrow.
He also pointed out a number of unusual aspects of China's recent development - one in particular we passed on our way west to Zhouzhuang (The Venice of the East). It was the ghost towns, great apartment complexes that had never been used. As Alan said one of China's numerous 'mistakes' in trying to bring the country into the 20th century and not really thinking things through.
Alan has excellent knowledge of his country’s history but is also enough of a realist to know that not everything was perfect. He spoke very passionately about the one child policy and the issues it has caused and will continue to cause for the next generation or two of China’s people.
During the 90 minute trip to Zhouzhuang he gave us a pocket history of China, including the 2000 years of feudalism, the influence of the French and English, the savage war with Japan, the opium wars, the rise of the People's Republic of China, the cultural revolution 1966-1976 and the recent technological and modernisation processes. He also gave us some insight into the annex and repossession of Hong Kong and the issue with Taiwan.
Our trip out involved us travelling on a number of major motorways and highways as well as some rough country roads. The majority of main roads have an excellent road surface.
Zhouzhuang is one of six Canal villages around this part of China but is the most famous because of the twin bridges, a painting of the bridges was used as the image for the first stamp of the United Nations.
https://media.mutualart.com/Images/2017_05/10/10/103621845/4b05aa28-8e5d-47aa-bcb6-940cddc86be2_570.Jpeg
We did a guided tour with Alan - this website gives detail of what we saw - http://www.thefullwiki.org/Zhouzhuang
The village is a picture of what you would expect Old China to look like but very much now a tourist destination with all the unfortunate aspects that go with it. The 'gondolas' moving through the canals were mainly rowed by women who were singing traditional Chinese songs. It is also a very interesting way they are rowed.
It was a novelty to be the first westerners that many of the other Chinese tourists had ever seen, especially the children. At one stage we were asked to have our photos taken with some children. They will have some great stories to tell their friends back at school!
Alan suggested lunch before giving us an hour of free time to explore before we were due back on the bus at 2.30pm.
We were entertained over lunch by an old lady singing local water canal songs whilst enjoying a meal of fish, vegetables, pork, tea and a beer to wash it down.
Thursday - June 28
Breakfast was organised for 8.00am, a more leisurely start to the day, before catching the bus (a 22 seater for 5 people was a bit of overkill) but it was what had been arranged, at 9.00am.
Breakfast at the Kingtown Plaza Hotel has been very good, a variety of western type dishes and Chinese breakfast foods. We all seem to eat more than needed but it stops the need to buy snacks during the day.
Once on the bus Alan gave us a general rundown on the day as well as sorting out times and other details for our flight to Chengdu tomorrow.
He also pointed out a number of unusual aspects of China's recent development - one in particular we passed on our way west to Zhouzhuang (The Venice of the East). It was the ghost towns, great apartment complexes that had never been used. As Alan said one of China's numerous 'mistakes' in trying to bring the country into the 20th century and not really thinking things through.
Alan has excellent knowledge of his country’s history but is also enough of a realist to know that not everything was perfect. He spoke very passionately about the one child policy and the issues it has caused and will continue to cause for the next generation or two of China’s people.
During the 90 minute trip to Zhouzhuang he gave us a pocket history of China, including the 2000 years of feudalism, the influence of the French and English, the savage war with Japan, the opium wars, the rise of the People's Republic of China, the cultural revolution 1966-1976 and the recent technological and modernisation processes. He also gave us some insight into the annex and repossession of Hong Kong and the issue with Taiwan.
Our trip out involved us travelling on a number of major motorways and highways as well as some rough country roads. The majority of main roads have an excellent road surface.
Zhouzhuang is one of six Canal villages around this part of China but is the most famous because of the twin bridges, a painting of the bridges was used as the image for the first stamp of the United Nations.
https://media.mutualart.com/Images/2017_05/10/10/103621845/4b05aa28-8e5d-47aa-bcb6-940cddc86be2_570.Jpeg
We did a guided tour with Alan - this website gives detail of what we saw - http://www.thefullwiki.org/Zhouzhuang
The village is a picture of what you would expect Old China to look like but very much now a tourist destination with all the unfortunate aspects that go with it. The 'gondolas' moving through the canals were mainly rowed by women who were singing traditional Chinese songs. It is also a very interesting way they are rowed.
It was a novelty to be the first westerners that many of the other Chinese tourists had ever seen, especially the children. At one stage we were asked to have our photos taken with some children. They will have some great stories to tell their friends back at school!
Alan suggested lunch before giving us an hour of free time to explore before we were due back on the bus at 2.30pm.
We were entertained over lunch by an old lady singing local water canal songs whilst enjoying a meal of fish, vegetables, pork, tea and a beer to wash it down.
Images of Zhouzhuang
After the meal we went our own way, walking through the narrow aisles between the various shops or along the canals and over the bridges. The shops were very narrow across the front and long towards the back with most having the living residence further back.
Back on the bus at 2.30pm we got back to the hotel at 4.00pm just as it was starting to rain. We had the evening to ourselves to look around and find dinner.
Paula and I ventured out again at 5.30pm with raincoats at the ready but it wasn't too wet and we only needed the umbrella. We walked along Nanjing Road looking for an Optometrist to get my reading glasses fixed, no problem and no charge. Next we took some money out at an ATM then continued to walk the streets just taking in the sights.
On our way back we stopped at McDonalds for a coffee and muffin then back to the room. Paula wasn't hungry so we stayed in and packed.
Back on the bus at 2.30pm we got back to the hotel at 4.00pm just as it was starting to rain. We had the evening to ourselves to look around and find dinner.
Paula and I ventured out again at 5.30pm with raincoats at the ready but it wasn't too wet and we only needed the umbrella. We walked along Nanjing Road looking for an Optometrist to get my reading glasses fixed, no problem and no charge. Next we took some money out at an ATM then continued to walk the streets just taking in the sights.
On our way back we stopped at McDonalds for a coffee and muffin then back to the room. Paula wasn't hungry so we stayed in and packed.
Day 5
Friday - June 29
It was a 6.30am breakfast ready for us to catch the bus to the airport for our flight to Chengdu. Our arrival time was scheduled for 2.30pm. Chengdu is a modern, purpose build city, population 10 million. We have flown almost 1700kms to get here and in normal circumstances would have travelled through 2 time zones, but not in China, even time is centralised. All of China works on Beijing time! We were driven to our motel in a Buick, a not uncommon car on the roads in China. Lots of new BMWs and Mercedes as well - more than you would expect. Thankfully we use the same car to go to the railway station in a few days as Paula has left her travel pillow on the back seat. Our hotel, Garden City Hotel is very central in Chengdu, close to a shopping mall with a two storey supermarket, 'Carrefour', and the major shopping precinct, which was an incredible walk - more lights and signs than in Piccadilly. After settling in we met Alan just before 6.00pm to go for dinner and to see some Chinese Theatre. We enjoyed some very hot Chinese green tea in the tea house below the theatre before the show.
The show, 'Sichuan Opera - Legend of Face Changing' was spectacular, we were still talking about how they had changed faces so quickly all the way back to the hotel. The acrobatics and dancing was good and even though we couldn't fully appreciate the full story we knew it was a love story.
Friday - June 29
It was a 6.30am breakfast ready for us to catch the bus to the airport for our flight to Chengdu. Our arrival time was scheduled for 2.30pm. Chengdu is a modern, purpose build city, population 10 million. We have flown almost 1700kms to get here and in normal circumstances would have travelled through 2 time zones, but not in China, even time is centralised. All of China works on Beijing time! We were driven to our motel in a Buick, a not uncommon car on the roads in China. Lots of new BMWs and Mercedes as well - more than you would expect. Thankfully we use the same car to go to the railway station in a few days as Paula has left her travel pillow on the back seat. Our hotel, Garden City Hotel is very central in Chengdu, close to a shopping mall with a two storey supermarket, 'Carrefour', and the major shopping precinct, which was an incredible walk - more lights and signs than in Piccadilly. After settling in we met Alan just before 6.00pm to go for dinner and to see some Chinese Theatre. We enjoyed some very hot Chinese green tea in the tea house below the theatre before the show.
The show, 'Sichuan Opera - Legend of Face Changing' was spectacular, we were still talking about how they had changed faces so quickly all the way back to the hotel. The acrobatics and dancing was good and even though we couldn't fully appreciate the full story we knew it was a love story.
The walk back was interesting, we passed a number of bronze statues depicting the change in clothing styles in China from 1920 to 2000. Even though we were walking down darker streets, we felt safe.
Back in the hotel we did some more washing before bed.
Enjoying a HOT green tea!
Day 6
Saturday - June 30
Another walking day, hopefully it doesn't rain.
It was a great morning for a walk, cool breeze and we didn't get wet! We started by finding the Bank of China - we will need cash for the three days on the boat so Alan showed us where the ATM was. We then continued down to the main city square, Tianfu Square, to view the monument to Chairman Mao.
From here it was over to the Chengdu Museum. We had 2 hours in here and had a special treat in watching two small boys, about Jake's age (7), doing tour guide presentations to adults and other children. Alan explained that a lot of parents want their children to experience this as it gives them good presentation skills, builds confidence and gives them a knowledge of China's history. It is all volunteer work for the family.
It was a good museum, especially the presentation of the puppetry history in China and the change in cultural aspects of the city. Chengdu was a walled city until well into the 1950s.
After the museum we walked to Renmin Park (the People's Park - every city in China has a People's Park). Before entering we put on insect repellent as the area is humid and has a lot of mosquitoes. The park is a very relaxing spot, with interesting tea-houses and areas full of locals exercising, singing, playing Mahjong, boating on the lake and relaxing in their bamboo chairs drinking tea. We got to see a few mahjong players on a second storey above a tea house. They use much larger tiles than we have at home and seem to build 'the wall' differently.
Saturday - June 30
Another walking day, hopefully it doesn't rain.
It was a great morning for a walk, cool breeze and we didn't get wet! We started by finding the Bank of China - we will need cash for the three days on the boat so Alan showed us where the ATM was. We then continued down to the main city square, Tianfu Square, to view the monument to Chairman Mao.
From here it was over to the Chengdu Museum. We had 2 hours in here and had a special treat in watching two small boys, about Jake's age (7), doing tour guide presentations to adults and other children. Alan explained that a lot of parents want their children to experience this as it gives them good presentation skills, builds confidence and gives them a knowledge of China's history. It is all volunteer work for the family.
It was a good museum, especially the presentation of the puppetry history in China and the change in cultural aspects of the city. Chengdu was a walled city until well into the 1950s.
After the museum we walked to Renmin Park (the People's Park - every city in China has a People's Park). Before entering we put on insect repellent as the area is humid and has a lot of mosquitoes. The park is a very relaxing spot, with interesting tea-houses and areas full of locals exercising, singing, playing Mahjong, boating on the lake and relaxing in their bamboo chairs drinking tea. We got to see a few mahjong players on a second storey above a tea house. They use much larger tiles than we have at home and seem to build 'the wall' differently.
There was an area of the park that had what looked like notices on the small fences and also on the ground. Alan explained that it was a husband and wife advertising technique. Because of the 'one child' policy China has 30 million more men than women. The families of the girls put the signs up looking for potential husbands. Match making and fixed marriages are still well and truly a part of Chinese culture, just in a different form.
After the park Alan found us a little restaurant for what we thought was going to be for a snack, 3 courses and lots of rice later we left - everyone decided that for dinner it would be fruit and/or coffee and cake, we are eating too much!
After the park Alan found us a little restaurant for what we thought was going to be for a snack, 3 courses and lots of rice later we left - everyone decided that for dinner it would be fruit and/or coffee and cake, we are eating too much!
Chairman Mao monument in Tianfu Square
Playing Mahjong
Match making in the 'new' China.
Our next stop was going to be the Jinli ancient street markets but on our way there we came across a man tying small live turtles in string and hanging them over a rail. We were intrigued - Alan explained that it was a Buddhist custom that if you saved the life of another animal it improved aspects of your after-life. 10 yuan each and a few minutes later Jane and Paula were releasing the turtles into the Jinjang River!
The weather had warmed up considerably by the time we got to the markets and being a Saturday it was crowded. Alan took us in to a central point then gave us an hour to explore. It was an interesting market.
After finding Alan at the entrance we purchased tickets, just down the road, for a visit to a Tibetan Temple (Sanyi Temple), the Wu Zhou Shrine and the Huiling Tomb.
By the time we finished we were foot weary and public transport was suggested to get back to the hotel. It was very efficient public transport as well.
Once back it was showers and a rest before heading out to find a small meal and some snacks for the bullet train and boat journeys tomorrow.
Paula and I took a walk around to see if the fountains near the Mao monument were working but just as we got there it started to rain. Having no raincoats or an umbrella we waited it out in McDonalds with Ken having a coffee and 'lamingtons', we were surprised to find them in China!
Paula is finding the China traffic daunting, especially the scooters and bikes. They ignore all traffic regulations and ride on the footpaths. To manoeuvre around them you need eyes in the back of your head - Paula doesn't want to be knocked over and have another broken bone so she is very cautious.
The rain cleared fairly quickly and as the fountains still weren't on we headed back to the 'Carrefour' supermarket. Before we went in we did a loop of the block to look at the fresh fish market John and Jane had found the night before. Half of it was still open even though it was after 8.30pm.
Supplies for dinner and snacks for the train and boat organised we headed back to the room to pack. We have been told 7.30am in the car so need to have breakfast and be checked out by then so a 5.45am alarm has been set.
The weather had warmed up considerably by the time we got to the markets and being a Saturday it was crowded. Alan took us in to a central point then gave us an hour to explore. It was an interesting market.
After finding Alan at the entrance we purchased tickets, just down the road, for a visit to a Tibetan Temple (Sanyi Temple), the Wu Zhou Shrine and the Huiling Tomb.
By the time we finished we were foot weary and public transport was suggested to get back to the hotel. It was very efficient public transport as well.
Once back it was showers and a rest before heading out to find a small meal and some snacks for the bullet train and boat journeys tomorrow.
Paula and I took a walk around to see if the fountains near the Mao monument were working but just as we got there it started to rain. Having no raincoats or an umbrella we waited it out in McDonalds with Ken having a coffee and 'lamingtons', we were surprised to find them in China!
Paula is finding the China traffic daunting, especially the scooters and bikes. They ignore all traffic regulations and ride on the footpaths. To manoeuvre around them you need eyes in the back of your head - Paula doesn't want to be knocked over and have another broken bone so she is very cautious.
The rain cleared fairly quickly and as the fountains still weren't on we headed back to the 'Carrefour' supermarket. Before we went in we did a loop of the block to look at the fresh fish market John and Jane had found the night before. Half of it was still open even though it was after 8.30pm.
Supplies for dinner and snacks for the train and boat organised we headed back to the room to pack. We have been told 7.30am in the car so need to have breakfast and be checked out by then so a 5.45am alarm has been set.
Day 7
Sunday July 1
We were up with the alarm, packed and ready to leave for breakfast by 6.45am. We checked out, left our luggage and headed for breakfast.
Breakfast was finished and we were in the car on the way to the Chengdu Giant Panda Research Centre right on 7.30am.
The early start was an excellent idea as we missed the majority of the crowds and actually got to see the giant pandas active and eating. During the day they are usually just asleep. What we saw and experienced was magical - they are truly a unique animal.
We also got to see the red pandas and had a walk through a butterfly museum.
The traffic and tourist buses at the entrance to the Panda centre as we were leaving were unbelievable - it definitely pays going early - worth the trouble to get up before the sun is up!
Sunday July 1
We were up with the alarm, packed and ready to leave for breakfast by 6.45am. We checked out, left our luggage and headed for breakfast.
Breakfast was finished and we were in the car on the way to the Chengdu Giant Panda Research Centre right on 7.30am.
The early start was an excellent idea as we missed the majority of the crowds and actually got to see the giant pandas active and eating. During the day they are usually just asleep. What we saw and experienced was magical - they are truly a unique animal.
We also got to see the red pandas and had a walk through a butterfly museum.
The traffic and tourist buses at the entrance to the Panda centre as we were leaving were unbelievable - it definitely pays going early - worth the trouble to get up before the sun is up!
Unforgettable images of the Giant Pandas
Teenage Giant Pandas at play
Our departure time to the railway station was 11.30am, again we were on time.
The railway station is modern, new and very big with lots of empty spaces being readied for businesses to move into.
Our train to Chongqing (approximately a 2 hour trip) leaves at 2.35pm so we had time to find something to eat and have a wander around.
The fast train is just that, very fast and smooth, average speed 295km/h. I'm not sure what I had expected of the China's farmland but what we saw of the land between Chengdu and Chongqing is very lush, green and hilly. The area doesn't seem to have villages or towns as we know them but houses scattered through the hillside on the best available level ground, individually or clustered in small groups. Still no blue skies, even in the countryside.
At Chongqing (which is a huge city that caters for 32 million people over an area the size of the ACT in Australia) we boarded the 'Goddess 2', a large cruise boat for our trip on one of the world's greatest rivers. For the next three days and nights we are cruising down part of the 6,300 kilometres Yangtze (also known locally as the Chang Jiang), the world's third longest waterway. It winds deep into the heart of the province of Qinghai, to the north of Tibet, and flows relentlessly eastwards until it empties into the East China Sea near Shanghai.
The railway station is modern, new and very big with lots of empty spaces being readied for businesses to move into.
Our train to Chongqing (approximately a 2 hour trip) leaves at 2.35pm so we had time to find something to eat and have a wander around.
The fast train is just that, very fast and smooth, average speed 295km/h. I'm not sure what I had expected of the China's farmland but what we saw of the land between Chengdu and Chongqing is very lush, green and hilly. The area doesn't seem to have villages or towns as we know them but houses scattered through the hillside on the best available level ground, individually or clustered in small groups. Still no blue skies, even in the countryside.
At Chongqing (which is a huge city that caters for 32 million people over an area the size of the ACT in Australia) we boarded the 'Goddess 2', a large cruise boat for our trip on one of the world's greatest rivers. For the next three days and nights we are cruising down part of the 6,300 kilometres Yangtze (also known locally as the Chang Jiang), the world's third longest waterway. It winds deep into the heart of the province of Qinghai, to the north of Tibet, and flows relentlessly eastwards until it empties into the East China Sea near Shanghai.
Our 'Bang Bang' man
The 'Goddess 2'
On arrival a 'bang bang' man, he looked very old and frail, carried all our luggage (over 75kilos) on a bamboo pole across his neck down a whole heap of stairs to the boat. It was amazing to behold!
Once on the boat we had the opportunity to upgrade our rooms and dining options or just dining options, we chose just the dining option.
A 'Goddess 2' tour guide, Annie, explained the 3 days and the tour options, both included and optional. We will have some interesting decisions to make over the next few days as to what we do. All the activities look great.
The boat is presented as ornate Chinese with golds and burgundy as the main colours. It will be fun to explore over the next 3 days.
Alan took John onshore to look for something to help with his sore throat whilst the rest of us took the luggage to the rooms and got organised to meet for dinner at 7.00pm. Alan has suggested one meal between two as they are very large servings.
After dinner we went exploring the boat. Jane and Paula got talking and decided that maybe the upgrade was actually worth it!
We found Alan and with his help we are now in a cabin you can actually move around in, have free wifi, free laundry (10 items), a fresh fruit plate each day and did I mention more space!
An added bonus was the lovely lush bath towels and robes.
At the same time as we were relocating the boat started to leave. Paula managed to get to the sun deck for photos. We stayed here enjoying the breeze until well after 10.00pm.
Once on the boat we had the opportunity to upgrade our rooms and dining options or just dining options, we chose just the dining option.
A 'Goddess 2' tour guide, Annie, explained the 3 days and the tour options, both included and optional. We will have some interesting decisions to make over the next few days as to what we do. All the activities look great.
The boat is presented as ornate Chinese with golds and burgundy as the main colours. It will be fun to explore over the next 3 days.
Alan took John onshore to look for something to help with his sore throat whilst the rest of us took the luggage to the rooms and got organised to meet for dinner at 7.00pm. Alan has suggested one meal between two as they are very large servings.
After dinner we went exploring the boat. Jane and Paula got talking and decided that maybe the upgrade was actually worth it!
We found Alan and with his help we are now in a cabin you can actually move around in, have free wifi, free laundry (10 items), a fresh fruit plate each day and did I mention more space!
An added bonus was the lovely lush bath towels and robes.
At the same time as we were relocating the boat started to leave. Paula managed to get to the sun deck for photos. We stayed here enjoying the breeze until well after 10.00pm.
Day 8
Monday July 2
A fog over the Yangtze has slowed the boat's progress overnight and this morning, so the day’s itinerary has been thrown out of whack. We were able to have a leisurely breakfast and spend the morning just relaxing.
Whilst waiting we had a game of Mahjong on a purpose build table in a purpose built Mahjong room, the table itself 'twitters' the tiles and builds the wall. Jane picked the concept of the game up very quickly. We had no real winner but had fun anyway.
We have organised to do all the optional tours.
Our first activity was to watch a video on the building of the Three Gorges Dam, we visit the dam on Wednesday. It was an enormous undertaking, not just the scale of the dam but the fact they had to relocate over 1.3 million people from their historical homes to flood the basin. In some cases 2 thousand years of history and artefacts were being covered in water.
The cities they built along the Yangtze all seem to be on the left side, apparently build for easier access to the major cities. They are functional cities, no regard to the welfare of the elderly, transposed people seems to have been considered.
We had lunch slightly earlier then visited the Jade Emperor Palace, lots of stairs to negotiate (over 500!)
The palace was built as a sacred site for Taoism, one of the original religious beliefs of China.
Paula had the opportunity to hit the bell three times with increasing loudness then on the way out the chance to hit the drum with decreasing intensity. You had to also be careful that you did not use the centre entrance to enter the temples as these were only for the Emperor to use.
Monday July 2
A fog over the Yangtze has slowed the boat's progress overnight and this morning, so the day’s itinerary has been thrown out of whack. We were able to have a leisurely breakfast and spend the morning just relaxing.
Whilst waiting we had a game of Mahjong on a purpose build table in a purpose built Mahjong room, the table itself 'twitters' the tiles and builds the wall. Jane picked the concept of the game up very quickly. We had no real winner but had fun anyway.
We have organised to do all the optional tours.
Our first activity was to watch a video on the building of the Three Gorges Dam, we visit the dam on Wednesday. It was an enormous undertaking, not just the scale of the dam but the fact they had to relocate over 1.3 million people from their historical homes to flood the basin. In some cases 2 thousand years of history and artefacts were being covered in water.
The cities they built along the Yangtze all seem to be on the left side, apparently build for easier access to the major cities. They are functional cities, no regard to the welfare of the elderly, transposed people seems to have been considered.
We had lunch slightly earlier then visited the Jade Emperor Palace, lots of stairs to negotiate (over 500!)
The palace was built as a sacred site for Taoism, one of the original religious beliefs of China.
Paula had the opportunity to hit the bell three times with increasing loudness then on the way out the chance to hit the drum with decreasing intensity. You had to also be careful that you did not use the centre entrance to enter the temples as these were only for the Emperor to use.
Jade Emperor Palace
I tried hard to obey the sign!
Back on the boat we attended the Captain's welcome and had a number of Chinese gentlemen ask to have their photos taken with us. Not sure exactly why but apparently has a bit to to with Ken's facial hair and being Westerners.
Truly spectacular show!
'Conquest of Shu by Wei'
We were popular for photo opportunities.
Jane joined us for the Three Gorges Large-scaled Landscape Live-action show at Zhongxian that night. It is a dramatisation of the 'Conquest of Shu by Wei'. This was a military campaign launched by the state of Cao Wei ("Wei") against its rival Shu Han ("Shu") in late 263 during the Three Kingdoms period of China. The campaign culminated in the fall of Shu and the tripartite equilibrium maintained in China for over 40 years since the end of the Eastern Han dynasty in 220. The conquest signified the beginning of a reunified China under the Jin dynasty (265–420).
It was truly spectacular, moving stage props, moving audience structures, fast moving horses and actors, suspended dancers, awesome lighting and having the stage area covered in water added to the spectacle.
There would have been more than 100 actors and 20 horses in the show, which tonight would have outnumbered the audience.
After the show it was back to the boat and a sound sleep.
It was truly spectacular, moving stage props, moving audience structures, fast moving horses and actors, suspended dancers, awesome lighting and having the stage area covered in water added to the spectacle.
There would have been more than 100 actors and 20 horses in the show, which tonight would have outnumbered the audience.
After the show it was back to the boat and a sound sleep.
Day 9
Tuesday July 3
Early breakfast to get to the first of the three excursions today. First was the White Emperor City. John joined us on this excursion. This is an island city ideally placed where the Yangtze meets two other tributaries and a perfect place to have a fortress, which is what the city originally was. It has also famously been a retreat for Chinese poets who have described the beauty of the area in their poems. Again over 350 steps but not as many as there had been before the area was flooded. It would have been a challenge to have walked the 1000 or more that you use to have to climb. No wonder the special guests and Chinese officials of the time got carried up by servants on a wicker chair hung between poles they rested on their shoulders. They still use the same method to transport visitors up who find the steps too daunting.
The site had a few interesting temples but it was the views over the Dragon's Gate that were more interesting. A line drawing of the Dragon's Gate is portrayed on the 10 yuan note.
Another interesting aspect was the poems that had been written on the island, one in particular was different as the poem had been written in such a way that the characters used to write the poem were made to look like bamboo.
After returning to the boat we had lunch and before boarding a smaller boat to view the Lesser Three Gorges, Paula had a game of Table Tennis (Chinese Ping Pong) with Alan.
Paula has an upset stomach today, hopefully not getting 'Bali belly'!
Ken is developing Buddha belly but that has more to do with the amount he is eating and drinking than anything else! Definitely value for money with Chinese food.
The trip up the river observing the landscape of the gorge has to be seen to be believed, towering steep sides pocketed with fields of corn or fruit trees on any flat piece of land that can be found. Houses perched in precarious spots and huge bridges cross the gorge in strategic points joining towns and cities together. The sides of the gorge, up to 175 metres above sea level, are regularly cleared of any vegetation. This is the highest level of the river and the level the reservoir is kept at in winter. In summer it is kept at 130 metres.
The main reason is to keep the water clear and free from rotting vegetation and dead branches and also to keep the water the dark green it naturally is. It is unfortunate that the river is still polluted with bottles, styrofoam and other man-made junk. It spoils the whole presentation of the area.
The barren twisted layers of conglomerate rock form a very stark contrast to the green vegetation, grasses, trees and bushes that form a type of crown for the rest of the terrain. Various rock and mountain formations even have names. We came across a small Buddhist temple built into the mountain side, a number of caves that had coffins in them, hanging coffins, and an intriguing walkway, 23.9 kms long, with one section having a glass bottom. It looked like a great tourist idea but we saw no-one using it.
Just after passing the suspended path, we left our boat and transferred to much smaller Sampans, traditional Chinese boats, for our third excursion up the Mini Gorges. We were required to wear life jackets on the Sampans and keep our hands, elbows and arms inside the boat at all times.
Tuesday July 3
Early breakfast to get to the first of the three excursions today. First was the White Emperor City. John joined us on this excursion. This is an island city ideally placed where the Yangtze meets two other tributaries and a perfect place to have a fortress, which is what the city originally was. It has also famously been a retreat for Chinese poets who have described the beauty of the area in their poems. Again over 350 steps but not as many as there had been before the area was flooded. It would have been a challenge to have walked the 1000 or more that you use to have to climb. No wonder the special guests and Chinese officials of the time got carried up by servants on a wicker chair hung between poles they rested on their shoulders. They still use the same method to transport visitors up who find the steps too daunting.
The site had a few interesting temples but it was the views over the Dragon's Gate that were more interesting. A line drawing of the Dragon's Gate is portrayed on the 10 yuan note.
Another interesting aspect was the poems that had been written on the island, one in particular was different as the poem had been written in such a way that the characters used to write the poem were made to look like bamboo.
After returning to the boat we had lunch and before boarding a smaller boat to view the Lesser Three Gorges, Paula had a game of Table Tennis (Chinese Ping Pong) with Alan.
Paula has an upset stomach today, hopefully not getting 'Bali belly'!
Ken is developing Buddha belly but that has more to do with the amount he is eating and drinking than anything else! Definitely value for money with Chinese food.
The trip up the river observing the landscape of the gorge has to be seen to be believed, towering steep sides pocketed with fields of corn or fruit trees on any flat piece of land that can be found. Houses perched in precarious spots and huge bridges cross the gorge in strategic points joining towns and cities together. The sides of the gorge, up to 175 metres above sea level, are regularly cleared of any vegetation. This is the highest level of the river and the level the reservoir is kept at in winter. In summer it is kept at 130 metres.
The main reason is to keep the water clear and free from rotting vegetation and dead branches and also to keep the water the dark green it naturally is. It is unfortunate that the river is still polluted with bottles, styrofoam and other man-made junk. It spoils the whole presentation of the area.
The barren twisted layers of conglomerate rock form a very stark contrast to the green vegetation, grasses, trees and bushes that form a type of crown for the rest of the terrain. Various rock and mountain formations even have names. We came across a small Buddhist temple built into the mountain side, a number of caves that had coffins in them, hanging coffins, and an intriguing walkway, 23.9 kms long, with one section having a glass bottom. It looked like a great tourist idea but we saw no-one using it.
Just after passing the suspended path, we left our boat and transferred to much smaller Sampans, traditional Chinese boats, for our third excursion up the Mini Gorges. We were required to wear life jackets on the Sampans and keep our hands, elbows and arms inside the boat at all times.
Suspended Walkway.
A view from White Emperor City looking to the Dragon's Gate - a very important defence position along the river.
Photos of the Three Gorges, Lesser Three Gorges and the Mini Three Gorges. We travelled the Mini Three Gorges in a sampan.
The mini-Gorges were even narrower and steeper than the Lesser Gorges, and just as spectacular. The Sampan crew, two men who were traditional local farmers, but are now employed to guide tourists up the mini gorges on the Sampans, entertained us with songs. They were offered the tourist guide opportunity as compensation for loosing their farms after the river was flooded as part of the Three Gorges Dam project.
On returning to the smaller boat to take us back to our boat, the 'Goddess 2', we spotted a number of monkeys, Rhebus monkeys we were told, scampering up the rock face behind the area were the Sampans are kept. We spotted a few more on our way back and proudly announced our achievement to Alan on our return as he had mentioned that they use to live in great numbers along the Gorges but are rarely seen now. He was impressed with our success.
On returning to the smaller boat to take us back to our boat, the 'Goddess 2', we spotted a number of monkeys, Rhebus monkeys we were told, scampering up the rock face behind the area were the Sampans are kept. We spotted a few more on our way back and proudly announced our achievement to Alan on our return as he had mentioned that they use to live in great numbers along the Gorges but are rarely seen now. He was impressed with our success.
Rhebus monkeys
Again we had too much to eat for dinner but we had a good chat with Alan about tipping for the crew. Alan indicated that Peregrine includes the Yangtze cruise tipping component in the cost of the trip but said we could tip individuals we thought had supported us above and beyond their role.
We ventured onto the sundeck to look at the second of the Three Gorges, Wu Gorge, but it was too windy to stay too long.
Before heading to the staff cabaret we settled our account and organised the timetable for tomorrow, again another early start.
The staff cabaret was quite good for amateurs, the 5 girls dancing and the young magician were very good.
After the cabaret it was back to our rooms to pack for leaving the boat early but having the right things in our carry bags to survive a night on the sleeper train from Yichang to Xi’an, leaving at 7.40pm and arriving at 7.10am, with the possibility of not getting into our accommodation until after 2.00pm the following day. This done we also had to have the main luggage on level 1 as early as possible to be collected by 'bang bang' men at 5.30am to be carried ashore. We had special luggage labels and had to make sure our luggage was together.
Once done it was time to set the alarm for 5.45am and get some sleep.
We ventured onto the sundeck to look at the second of the Three Gorges, Wu Gorge, but it was too windy to stay too long.
Before heading to the staff cabaret we settled our account and organised the timetable for tomorrow, again another early start.
The staff cabaret was quite good for amateurs, the 5 girls dancing and the young magician were very good.
After the cabaret it was back to our rooms to pack for leaving the boat early but having the right things in our carry bags to survive a night on the sleeper train from Yichang to Xi’an, leaving at 7.40pm and arriving at 7.10am, with the possibility of not getting into our accommodation until after 2.00pm the following day. This done we also had to have the main luggage on level 1 as early as possible to be collected by 'bang bang' men at 5.30am to be carried ashore. We had special luggage labels and had to make sure our luggage was together.
Once done it was time to set the alarm for 5.45am and get some sleep.